One feature of newfound wealth in the developing world has been the embrace of Western luxury labels. But since the global economy fell apart, the rich classes have cooled their spending on Chanel handbags and Gucci shoes. That doesn't mean they've given up luxury fashion altogether. They are turning to smaller, local designers who are using the market depression to develop homemade luxury brands and compete with Armani by providing high-quality luxury products at a fraction of the price.
In India, the crisis has translated into an unexpected opportunity for Manish Arora and Rajesh Pratap Singh, two of the country's most talented designers. Both translate aspects of Indian culture and taste into unique contemporary collections, combining Indian color, sense and decoration with strict Western tailoring.
Their pieces have global appeal but also speak specifically to Indian customers. For as little as $350, Indian shoppers can purchase a dress at either designer's main store in Mumbai, indulging their inner pursuit of fashion without feeling guilty. “Indian designers have been sensitive to market conditions and have adjusted both their products and prices, allowing customers to have a sense of getting a good bargain even at the top end.” Says luxury retail consultant Sabina Chopra.
These markets all share certain traits: cheap, highly skilled craft labor; interest in abundant color and ornament; and a new class of millionaires still discovering the pleasures of distinct consumption. Their consumers are delighted to buy a statement piece by one of their own designers for a third of the price of a comparable Western creation. It goes beyond savings; there's an element of pride at work, too. No longer content to simply contribute cheap labor for Western articles, they're developing luxury in their own image. This sense of power is the start of a shift that promises to transform the luxury business into a truly globalized marketplace. Today, Western brands are learning to exist together with local brands in foreign markets. Tomorrow, they're likely to face serious competition from these upstarts on their home range of London, Milan, Paris or New York.