摘要
为探究原料和组织结构的变化对经编无缝服装整体性能的影响,优化原料和贾卡网孔组织在服装功能分区设计上的应用,设计生产了两种不同原料、11种不同组织的经编无缝贾卡面料,进行性能测试。对比了不同原料同种组织结构、同种原料不同组织结构、同大小的网孔不同的排列方式以及网孔不同比例横向拉伸对织物性能的影响。得出结论:40 D锦纶+2050锦氨包覆纱织造的织物透气性和透湿性较优,适合在室内外运动时穿着;70 D锦纶+4060锦氨包覆纱织造的织物氨纶含量高,具有紧身贴体高弹的优势,适合在运动幅度较大时穿着;经编网孔组织结构疏松,透气透湿性较好,随着织物横向拉伸百分比的增加,网孔组织的透气性逐渐增强;菱形排列网孔组织的综合性能优于横向并列的同等网孔组织。通过模糊物元综合评价法分析组织和原料的综合性能,对原料和组织结构排列进行合理的组合分配,有利于提高服装的整体穿着功能性,为经编无缝服装的生产开发提供一定的理论指导。
In order to explore the impact of changes in raw materials and organizational structure on the overall performance of warp-knitted seamless garments,the application of raw materials and Jacquard mesh organization in the design of garment functional partitions is optimized.Two different raw materials and 11 different jacquard stitches are designed and produced,and the performance is tested.The different tissue structure of different raw materials,different tissue structures of the same material,different arrangement of meshes of the same size,and the effect of transverse stretching of mesh on the fabric properties are compared.The conclusion is that the fabric woven by 40 D nylon+2050 nylon coated yarn has better air permeability and moisture permeability,and is suitable for indoor and outdoor sports wear;70 D nylon+4060 nylon coated yarn woven fabric has high content of spandex with the advantage of tight body and high elasticity,and is suitable for wearing when the movement is large;the warp-knitted mesh structure is better due to loose porosity and moisture permeability.The percentage of transverse stretch of fabric increases,and the permeability of the mesh structure is gradually enhanced;the comprehensive performance of the mesh structure of the diamond arrangement is superior to the horizontal mesh structure of the same mesh.The comprehensive performance of tissues and raw materials are analyzed by fuzzy matter element comprehensive evaluation method,and the raw materials and organizational structure are arranged for reasonable combination distribution,which is conducive to improving the overall wearing function of the garment,and can provide a certain theoretical guidance for the production and development of warp knitted seamless garments.
作者
张囡
蒋高明
董智佳
储云明
储开元
王思凡
ZHANG Nan;JIANG Gaoming;DONG Zhijia;CHU Yunming;CHU Kaiyuan;WANG Sifan(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,Jiangsu,China;Jiangsu Huayi Knitting Co.,Ltd.,Yixing 214200,Jiangsu,China;Textile and Garment College,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214000,Jiangsu,China)
出处
《上海纺织科技》
北大核心
2020年第2期5-9,共5页
Shanghai Textile Science & Technology
基金
国家自然科学基金(61772238)
江苏省产学研联合创新资金-前瞻性联合研究项目(BY2016022-21)
关键词
经编
无缝服装
贾卡组织
全成形服装
组织结构
透气性
透湿性
warp knitting
seamless clothing
jacquard organization
full-formed clothing
organization structure
air permeability
moisture permeability
