摘要
中国早期佛教供养人服饰暨远志在佛教石窟和造像碑中,往往有很多世俗信众的形象,这种刻出形象的施主,我们称之为供养人。由于中国封建社会历来重视礼仪文化,制定严格的衣冠服饰制度,官民均不得倡越等级,因此,供养人服饰是当时社会礼仪的体现,反映了当时不同阶层的...
Generally Speaking, Chinese rules and regulations about dress and personal adorn-ments were formulated in Han Dynasty,especially in the second year of Yong-ping永平(A. D. 59),which was the reign title of Ming Li,the second emperor of Late Han Dy-nasty. From then on,more and more reliable records concerning dress and personaladornments were produced,including the valuable information which can be foul1d in y-fu-zhi舆服志of the Hou-Han-sh 后汉书 and Jin-sh晋书,as well as the Li-zhi礼志of the song-shu 宋书。Furthermore,culture relics of dress and personal adorn-ments of Han and Two-Jin 晋 Dynasties have lately been unearthed in china. These his-toral records and culture relics, together with some stone reliefs and cave paintingswhich can demonstrate the manners and customs of the dress and personal adornmentsof these periods,supply concrete materials for our further studies on this subject.According to the historal records and cuIture relics, we can make out that women-had three kinds of dress:①The ritual dress祭礼服,which was worn on the occasion of the festival of ances-tral shrine. ② The can-fu蚕服,which was used mainly as the court dress,as well as the dressof the ceremonies performed in connection with sericulture.③ The ordinary dress常服,which was used in other cases. And we have also discov-ered the very historal relics which can convincingly support the discussion abovt on,allth three kinds of dress worn by the women's salms givers who were portraited in cavepaintings and curved on stone during western Qin and Northern Liang Dynasties. Unfor-tunetely,as for as the men's suit of these periods is concerned no painting or relief hasbeen discovered which can confirm the historal records,except those on the court suit.As a result, we can draw a reasonable conclusion that dress and personal adorn-ments in Western Qin and Northern Liang Dynasties followed the customs prevailing inHan and Jin Dynasties.
出处
《敦煌研究》
CSSCI
北大核心
1995年第1期135-145,共11页
Dunhuang Research