摘要
Based upon the nonlinear model of random sea waves,a commonly applicable statistical distribution of wave surface elevation exact to the third order is derived through the direct calculations of each order moment.The distribution arrived reduces,in the sense of being exact to H_6,to the Gram-Charlier series due to Longuet-Higgins for deep water,provided that only the two simplest kinds of wave-wave inter- actions are taken into account The reason why the agreement of Gram-Charlier series with experimental data becomes worse and worse as the terms of series are increased is explicited for the first time.
Based upon the nonlinear model of random sea waves,a commonly applicable statisticaldistribution of wave surface elevation exact to the third order is derived through the direct calculations ofeach order moment.The distribution arrived reduces,in the sense of being exact to H<sub>6</sub>,to the Gram-Charlierseries due to Longuet-Higgins for deep water,provided that only the two simplest kinds of wave-wave inter-actions are taken into account The reason why the agreement of Gram-Charlier series with experimental databecomes worse and worse as the terms of series are increased is explicited for the first time.
基金
the National Natural Science Foundation of China
