摘要
在简要介绍现有近岸波浪数值模型的基础上,对应用了最新波浪研究成果、适用于海岸、湖泊和河口地区的第三代浅水波浪数值预报模型的研究和应用进行了详细论述。通过该模型数值计算得到黄程山局部区域不同风向的有效波高分布,将模型与海区泥沙骤淤机理相结合,进而得到整个区域平均含沙量的分布,并数值预报近岸区域骤淤量随时间的变化,研究成果可为海区大风浪情况下骤淤预报提供理论指导,本文最后讨论了泥沙骤淤计算模型未来发展的趋势。
The exisiting numerial models for predicting nearshore waves are briefly introduced, and the third-generation numerical model for predicting shallow water wave, which makes use of the most adwanced products of wave research and has been adapted well to the environment of seacoast, lake and estuary area, are particularly discussed. The distribution of significant wave height in different wind directions is achieved by the model applied. To integrate the model into the coastal area sediment sudden deposition mechanism, the distribution of average silt content and the change of sediment sudden deposition thickness over time in the nearshore area are simulated. The academic results provide theoretical guidance to the applications of sediment sudden deposition mechanism for stormy waves in the coastal area. And the advancing direction of sediment sudden deposition model is prospected.
出处
《海洋通报》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2007年第4期3-12,共10页
Marine Science Bulletin
基金
国家自然科学基金资助项目(40376028
50279030)
关键词
BOUSSINESQ方程
缓坡方程
第三代浅水波浪数值预报模型
骤淤
Boussinesq equation
mild-slope equation
the third-generation numerical model for the shallow water wave
sediment sudden deposition
