摘要
服装是人类文明发展以来重要的文化产物,是一整套文化的象征系统,它所反映的历史与时代精神是服装作为符号的本质内涵。中山装因由孙中山设计并率先穿着而得名,随着国民党统一中国、推广孙中山崇拜而成为公务员制服。在国家权力的推广与影响之下,中山装在全国各地广为流行,逐渐成为代表中国形象的国服。中山装具有规训身体的重要政治功能,影响着人们的观念意识,是中国现代民族国家建构过程中出现的具有特别意义的服装,既体现出民族性,又具有现代性。从某种意义上说,中山装是时代的镜子,它折射出中华民国作为新兴民族国家力图通过推广国家服装重塑中国人的身体政治。
Costume is the important offspring of people＇s civilization and a set of the symbolic system. The spirit of history and times what it reflects is the nature of costume as a symbol. Zhongshan Zhuang, the ＂Sun Yet-sen suit＂, was named after Sun Yet-sen because he designed it and wore it at first. After the Kuomintang united China and popularized the movement of worshiping Sun Yet-sen, Zhongshan Zhuang became the uniform in Republic of China. Under the promotion by State Power, Zhongshan Zhuang became very fashionable all over China. It also was the country suit which represented the image of China. Zhongshan Zhuang had the political function to discipline body and could affect the concept and conscious- ness of people. It was the special costume in the proceeding of construing modern nation-state of China, which was not only reflected in nationality, but also manifested itself in modernity. In a sense, Zhongshan Zhuang was the mirror of times that reflected the body politics of Republic of China as a new nation-state to remake Chinese people through popularizing national costume.
出处
《学术月刊》
CSSCI
北大核心
2007年第9期139-147,共9页
Academic Monthly
关键词
中山装
国家权力
流行
身体政治
Zhongshan Zhuang, the Kuomintang, state power, body politics
