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从羃離到胡帽:论唐代妇女服饰审美观念的嬗变 被引量:2

From Mili to Hu Hat:On Change of Women’s Aesthetic Concept of Dress in Tang Dynasty
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摘要 唐代妇女首服经历了羃離、帷帽、胡帽3个比较明显的嬗递变化阶段。这一变化过程极其充分地反映了唐代女子服饰逐渐走向开放的审美趣味,而这种开放的审美趣味的形成是有着社会文化原因的:首先唐初妇女着羃離,这是胡文化与中原儒家文化相结合的表征,是儒家传统礼仪束缚人们思想的一种具象;第二,唐代女子弃羃離着胡帽,服饰观念逐渐走向开放,这是胡汉文化深层融合的体现。第三,唐代女子靓妆露面、露髻驰骋,也是盛唐之音强烈感召的结果。 Women' s dress in Tang dynasty experienced three obvious changes of Mili, Wei Hat and Hu Hat. The change process fully reflects women' s aesthetic tastes going towards openness which has its social and cultural reasons. First, at the beginning of Tang dynasty, women wore Mili, which represents the combination of Hu culture and Chinese Confucian culture and is a specific symbol of traditional Confucian ceremony and propriety shackling people' s thoughts. Second, women in Tang dynasty gave up Mili and wore Hu Hat, and their dress concept gradually went towards openness, which expresses the deep combination of Hu and Han culture. Third, women in Tang dynasty made their appearance with pretty dress-up and coiled hair, which is also the result of great influence of prosperous Tang dynasty.
作者 竺小恩
出处 《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》 2007年第4期32-35,39,共5页 Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology
关键词 唐代女子 首服 审美观念 嬗变 社会文化原因 women in Tang dynasty dress aesthetic concept change social and cultural reason
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