摘要
所谓中国古代"冠服体制"的变迁,主要是指其分等分类样式及其在历代的变化。根据研究需要可以将其设定为"自然分类"、"职事分类"、"场合分等"、"级别分等"等概念,以此为工具来分析历朝冠服及服饰元素的不同排列组合样式以及冠服体制的表述形式。其结论是:周朝冠服体制特点,主要是"自然分类"和"级别分等"的结合。汉代冠服体制的特点,是其"自然分类"和"职事分类"相对突出;其时冠服的分类功能强于前朝后世,其分等功能弱于前朝后世。魏晋以后,冠服体制的重心日益向"级别分等"和"场合分等"偏转,服饰元素的等级规划日趋繁密。越是到历史后期,冠服之分等的功能越强。对上述变化的原因及意义,由此种视角的研究可以提供初步的解释。
The article discusses the change of system of official dresses in ancient China. Official dress system of Zhou Dynasty was mainly based on ＂natural difference＂ and ＂grade difference＂. In Han Dynasty, official dress system was mainly based on ＂natural difference＂ and ＂duty difference＂. From Wei and Jin Dynasties on, ＂situation classification＂ and ＂grade classification＂ were more and more used to manage official dress system.
出处
《史学月刊》
CSSCI
北大核心
2008年第2期29-41,共13页
Journal of Historical Science
关键词
中国
古代
服饰
冠服体制
China
ancient
clothing
system of official dresses
