摘要
研究香云纱的起源时间、地点与起源过程,要关注三个关键因素:薯莨、河泥、丝绸面料。以薯莨为染料有史料证明是在宋代;薯莨可将面料染成浅棕、浅褐等色,而面料染薯莨再过河泥(含高价铁离子的)后会变成黑色,清康熙三十九年(1700年)的史料可见薯莨染色与过泥同时应用在麻质渔网上;将薯莨染色与过泥技艺应用于丝绸面料才能称为香云纱,其中广义香云纱(即以多种丝绸面料为坯的薯莨纱绸),应起源于清同治十年(1871年)前的番禺,狭义香云纱(即以具有透孔小花的纱为坯的薯莨纱绸)则起源于民国初年的南海。
A study of gambiered Canton gauze about its original dates, sites and procedures relies heavily on three key factors, dioscorea cirrhosa lour, river silt and silk material. The historical data show that dioscorea cirrhosa lour was first used as the dye material in the Song Dynasty. Dioscorea cirrhosa lour it- self can dye the shell fabric to be the color of shallow brown or other colors, but the materials dyed by dioscorea cirrhosa lout will become black when it gets in touch with the river silt of high ferromolybde- num iron. The record shows t^at gambiered Canton gauze and river silt were used for the fish net of hemp and other fiber crops in 1700（during the Kangxi Period of the Qing Dynasty）. Only when di- oscorea cirrhosa lour and river silt are really used for silk shell fabric can gambiered Canton gauze be re- ally made. In a broad sense, gambiered Canton gauze refers to dioscorea cirrhosa lour silk with a variety of shell fabrics, which originated from Panyu in 1871 （during the Tongzhi Period of the Qing Dynasty）. And in the narrow sense, gambiered Canton gauze means dioscorea cirrhosa lour silk with deep hole floret yarn, which was first founded in Nanhai at the beginning of the Republic of China.
基金
2010年度佛山市哲学社会科学规划项目课题(10-w55)
关键词
香云纱
起源
薯莨
河泥
丝绸
gambiered Canton gauze
origin
dioscorea cirrhosa lour
river silt
silk
