摘要
基于波浪整体物理模型试验结果,研究了波浪从深水到浅水传播过程中的变化。结果显示,波浪从深水区传至浅水区后在一定位置处,波高统计值明显增大,波面过程分布从深水区的正态分布变为浅水区的三参数Weibull分布,而谱型则由深水区的JONSWAP谱变为浅水的Wallops谱。
Based on the experimental results from a physical wave model test, this paper investigates the wave transformation from the deep water to the shallow water. The results reveal that at some specified points in the shallow water the wave height has been increased dramatically and the possibility distribution of surfer elevation has been changed into 3 -Parameter Weibull Possibility Distribution from Normal Possibility Distribution. Furthermore, the wave spectrum in the specified area where the wave height grows up severely has been transformed into Wallops spectrum from the JONSWAP spectrum which is dominant in the deep water.
关键词
浅水波浪
波浪谱型
波浪变形
波面过程
概率分布
shallow water wave
wave spectrum
wave transformation
surfer elevation
possibility distribution