摘要
依托馆藏的近代民间服饰实物及文史材料,对近代女袄中苏绣的针法与配色进行了分析,刺绣的主要针法有齐针、正抢针、平套针与打子等,同时还有空水路的装饰应用及混合针的应用。研究了绣线与绣线之间的颜色搭配、绣线与绣底面料的颜色搭配,以及绣线与绣底面料的光泽搭配,认为根据面料选择不同的针法时需充分考虑面料、绣线与针法的整体配伍关系。苏绣的刺绣技法精巧细腻,色彩搭配和谐雅致,形象细致生动,探讨其在针法、配色方面的通常做法与普遍规律,对于保护和传承苏绣非物质文化遗产具有一定的借鉴意义。
This paper analyzes stitch method and match colors of Suzhou embroidery in modern female jacket according to reserved real folk clothing objects in modern times and historical materials. Main stitch methods of embroidery include parallel satin stitch, encroaching satin stitch, parallel long and short stitch and play-seed stitch etc. Meanwhile, it analyzes the decorative application of empty water path and the application of mixed stitches and studies color matching of embroidery threads and color matching and luster matching between embroidery threads and embroidery fabrics. It is necessary to fully consider the overall compatibility relation of fabrics, embroidery threads and stitch method when different stitch methods are selected according to fabrics. Suzhou embroidery has fine and exquisite skills, harmonious and elegant color matching and meticulous and vivid image. The discussion on its common practice and universal law in stitch method and match colors has certain reference significance for the protection and inheritance of intangible cultural heritage of Suzhou embroidery.
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
北大核心
2014年第3期48-53,59,共7页
Journal of Silk
基金
教育部人文社会科学基金项目(11XJA770090)
关键词
苏绣
针法
配色
近代女袄
服装
面料
Suzhou embroidery
stitch method
match colors
modern female jacket
clothing
fabric
