摘要
民国时期的女装形制多样且富有特色,而女性倒大袖上衣则是20世纪20年代女装的标志性符号。倒大袖上衣以其喇叭形衣袖和窄小的衣身构成了其独特的服装造型,以倒大袖上衣的衣身造型为研究切入点,结合文献资料与江南大学民间服饰传习馆中的倒大袖上衣实物,通过实物测量数据将衣身造型分类整理,分析其衣身由直到曲、由宽至窄的造型特点及变化规律,同时绘制其结构图来研究倒大袖上衣衣身与衣袖间的造型关系,展现其在衣身造型较传统女上衣变短窄的同时也符合于传统服装和谐有序的审美价值。
The women＇s clothing shapes were diverse and full of characteristic in the Republic of China,and women＇s coat with inverted big sleeves was a symbol in the 1920 s,but the horn-shaped sleeves and narrow body consisted of the unique modeling of the coat with inverted big sleeves. This paper takes the modeling of the coat with inverted big sleeves as the entry point,combines literature data and the coats with inverted big sleeves collected in Jiangnan University Folk Garments Biography Museum,and classifies the modeling according to the measurement data. Then,this paper analyzes modeling features from straight,wide to curly,narrow and the change rules,and draws the structure diagram to study modeling relationship between the body and sleeves and reveal the modeling becomes narrower than traditional modeling and conforms to harmonious and orderly aesthetic value of traditional clothes.
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2017年第1期70-74,共5页
Journal of Silk
基金
国家社会基金艺术学重点项目(15AG004)
关键词
倒大袖上衣
衣身
造型
结构
艺术审美
coat with inverted big sleeves
body
shape
structure
art aesthetics
