摘要
东晋至南朝宋早期,女性襦裙均为直袖,上襦长至腰腹,不束入下裙。最迟自南朝宋中期,广袖襦裙流行,上襦束入下裙,长至腰腹。南朝齐起,裙束上襦的穿法逐渐增多,一直流行到南朝末。梁普通、大通年间(520~529年)为南朝齐之后南朝女性襦裙腰线与领口变化的一个分界,梁普通之前,女性襦裙领口小,浅露脖颈腰线低;梁大通之后,齐胸的高腰线、欲露肩的大领口襦裙流行。南朝齐至南朝陈,上襦下垂不束入下裙的穿法依旧存在,但不属流行式样。
During Eastern Jin to early Song period of Southern Dynasties, most women wore the full skirts under short coats with straight sleeves. The number of women who wore short coats with trumpet sleeves under full skirts in Southern Dynasties had grown since Qi period. Putong period and Datong period （from AD 520 to 529） was a turning point of women＇s ruqun. Before Putong period women＇s belt line of ruqun was around their waists while women＇s collars was made tight-fitting during Qi period to Liang period of Southern Dynasties. During Southern Dynasties, Women＇s belt line of ruqun had been up to their chests while women＇s coats had open necklines since Datong period. Besides, during Mid Southern Dynasties to Late Southern Dynasties, few women wore the full skirts under short coats with trum- pet sleeves, which was out of fashion at that time.
出处
《艺术设计研究》
CSSCI
2017年第1期41-48,共8页
Art & Design Research
关键词
女性襦裙
东晋南朝
南朝梁
南朝齐
women＇s ruqun
Eastern Jin and Southern Dynasties
Liang period
Qi period
