摘要
针对目前毛衫生产无法一体成形,下机后需再进行套口和缝合等不足,研究了四针床电脑横机的全成形工艺。从机器的针床、机头三角系统、拉力装置、送纱和导纱装置的工作原理出发,对平针组织、罗纹组织以及开口的成形编织原理进行分析,并以典型的毛衫为例,用四针床电脑横机,探讨其结构成形方法。结果发现:基于4个针床配置的电脑横机使得毛衫能够进行满针筒状编织;四针床电脑横机全成形编织的基础是圆筒编织,具体包括筒状平针结构编织、筒状罗纹结构编织以及开口编织;通过选择编织方向和配置纱嘴,能完成典型款式毛衫,如高领长袖套衫、长袖开衫、无袖套衫,在四针床电脑横机上的一体成形。
Aiming at problems of existing sweater production on incapable of integrally forming and needing of linking and stitching,the paper studied a whole garment knitting process of the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine.Based on the working principles of the needle bed,the machine head cam system,the tension device and the yarn feeding and guiding device,the paper analyzed the forming knitting principles of the flat stitch,the ribbed stitch and the open end,uses classic sweater as example,and discusses its structure forming method on the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine.It is found that the computerized flat knitting machine configures based on four bed can perform all-needles tubular knitting on the sweater; and the basis of the whole garment knitting process on the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine is tubular knitting,including tubular plain knitting,tubular rib knitting and openend knitting.Finally,it is found that typical whole garments such as sweater with long sleeve and turtle neck,long sleeve cardigan and sleeveless sweaters can be knitted on the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine by properly choosing the knitting direction and configuring the yarn feeder.
作者
王敏
丛洪莲
蒋高明
彭佳佳
WANG Min CONG Honglian JIANG Gaoming PENG Jiajia(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China)
出处
《纺织学报》
EI
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2017年第4期61-67,共7页
Journal of Textile Research
基金
中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金项目(JUSRP51404A)
关键词
四针床电脑横机
全成形
数字式送纱
圆筒
C形编织
four-bed computerized flat knitting machine
whole garment
digital yarn feeding
tubular
C knitting
