摘要
为探究全聚纺针织物的服用性能,分别对天丝/长绒棉/精梳棉20/50/30、精梳棉/长绒棉20/80、涤纶/棉65/35和G100天丝四种相同规格的全聚纺针织物和环锭纺针织物的顶破性、透气性、渗水性进行直接测试;并采用Phabr Ometer评价系统,分别测试了织物的硬挺度、柔软度、光滑度、悬垂性,采用相关性分析法,比较手感特征值之间的关系。结果表明:全聚纺针织物有良好的抗顶破性和渗水性,硬挺度、光滑度也优于环锭纺针织物;而环锭纺针织物与全聚纺针织物相比则更加柔软,悬垂性和透气性也更好,但是在相对手感值方面却没明显优势;织物硬挺度和柔软度是影响织物手感风格的主要因素,实际生产中应根据用户要求,选择合适的纺纱系统织制织物。
In order to explore the wearability of complete condensing spinning knitted fabrics, complete condensingspinning and ring spinning knitted fabrics with the same specifications woven by tencel / long-staple cotton / combedcotton （20/50/30） yarn, combed cotton / long-staple cotton （20/80） yarn, polyester / cotton （65/35） yarn andG100 tencel yarn were taken as examples. And some properties of these fabrics such as bursting, water permeabilityand air permeability were tested and analyzed. Moreover, the PhabrOmeter evaluation system was also used to testtheir stiffness,softness, smoothness and draping values. And the method of correlation analysis was used to analyzethe relationship between the characteristic values of fabric hand feelings. It is shown that the complete condensingspinning fabrics have better bursting, water permeability, stiffness and smoothness. But the softness, drapability andair permeability of ring spinning knitted fabrics are more excellent than those of complete condensing spinning fabrics.However, in terms of the relative hand feeling, ring spinning knitted fabrics don’t have obvious advantages. Inaddition, the hand feeling depends mostly on the stiffness and softness of the fabrics. In the practical production,suitable spinning system should be chosen to weave the fabric according to the requirement of users.
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2017年第3期38-43,共6页
Journal of Silk
基金
江苏省博士后科研资助计划项目(1501146B)
中国博士后科学基金项目(2015M581722)
江苏省自然科学基金项目(BK20151359)
江苏省产学研项目(BY2015019-10
BY2016022-27)
苏省科技成果转化项目(BA2014080)
纺织服装产业河南省协同创新项目(hnfx14002)
广东省产学研项目(2013B090600038)
江苏高校优势学科建设工程资助项目(苏政办发[2014]37号)
新疆自治区重点研发项目(2016B02025-1)
关键词
全聚纺针织物
普通环锭纺针织物
服用性能
PhabrOmeter评价系统
相对手感
complete condensing spinning knitted fabrics
common ring spinning knitted fabrics
wearability
PhabrOmeter evaluation system
relative hand feeling
