摘要
冬青落叶可提取植物染料,通过对提取液吸光度的分析选择了浸提剂;通过单因素试验分析了染液的质量浓度、染色温度、染色时间和PH值对K/S值的影响,通过正交试验确定了无媒染色的最佳工艺条件;分析了媒染剂和媒染方法对色深、色相和牢度的影响。结果表明,选择水作为冬青落叶染料的提取剂较为合适;冬青落叶染料蚕丝织物无媒染色的最佳工艺为:染液质量浓度为60g/L,染色温度90℃,染色时间90min,染浴PH值为3,浴比为1:30;媒染对冬青落叶染料蚕丝织物染色的牢度有一定的提高,其中后媒法效果最好,不同媒染剂对色相影响不同。
Plant dyes can be extracted from holly leaves. By analyzing the absorbance of the extract, the extractant is selected. Based on the single factor experiment, this paper analyzes the effects of quality concentration, the dyeing temperature, the dyeing time and the PH value on K/S value. The optimum technological conditions of non-mordant dyeing were determined through orthogonal test. The paper also analyzes the effects of the mordant and the mordant method on the color depth, hue and fastness. The result shows that water is the proper extracting agent of holly leaves dye. And the optimum dyeing process of silk fabrics is as follows： the quality concentration of the dyeing solution is 60 g/L, the dyeing temperature is 90℃, the dyeing time is 90 min, the PH value of dyeing bath is 3 and the bath ratio is 1： 30. The fastness of mordant dyeing to the silk fabric with holly leaves dye has been improved to a certain extent. And the post-mordant method has the best effect. Different mordant has different effect on the hue.
作者
范荣
钟雨文
张鹏
FAN Rong;ZHONG Yu-wen;ZHANG Peng(Textile School,Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology,Ningbo,Zhejiang315211,China;Dyeing and Finishing Research Institute,Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology,Ningbo Zhejiang 315211,China)
出处
《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》
2018年第2期6-12,共7页
Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology
基金
浙江纺织服装职业技术学院卓越技师项目[ZYJS2016-05]
学生科研创新项目(宏人才)项目[2017HC09]
