摘要
针对北方汉族鞋垫的刺绣艺术拟从技术、设计、艺术及文化角度进行考析。通过对江南大学民间服饰传习馆藏42双北方汉族鞋垫实物的统计分析并取样研究发现:一、鞋垫刺绣工艺主要有平针绣、纳绣割绒和挑花绣3种形式,其中平绣和纳绣割绒使用广泛;二、鞋垫刺绣图案涉及植物类单独图案、动物类组合图案、文字类单独图案、文字类组合图案和几何类抽象图案5类,且以植物类单独图案为主;三、鞋垫主要刺绣色相为白色、红色、黑色和青色,其中白色占比最高,色彩搭配对比强烈。在此基础上,结合中国传统民俗文化及民间手工刺绣艺术分析提炼出北方汉族鞋垫的艺术特性,集中表现在4方面:工艺应用的多样性、图案构图的对称性、色彩搭配的对比统一性以及主题表现的象征性。旨在挖掘北方汉族鞋垫刺绣艺术特色,为今后作民族和地域服饰研究提供参考,也为当今鞋履艺术设计带来灵感。
This paper analyzes the embroidery art of insoles of Han nationality in north China from technology, design, art and culture. Based on the statistical analysis and sampling of 42 pairs of insoles collected in Folk Dress Museum in Jiangnan University, the study has the following findings. Firstly, the insole embroidery technology mainly consists of flat stitch embroidery, needle-cut embroidery and flower-picking embroidery, among which fiat stitch embroidery and needle-cut embroidery are widely used. Secondly, the insole embroidery patterns involve single plant patterns, animal combination patterns, single character patterns, charater combination patterns and abstract geometric pattern, and the single plant patterns are mainly used. Thirdly, insoles are mainly embroidered with colors of white, red, black and cyan with the highest proportion of white and the strong constrast of color collocation. On this basis, by combining with traditional Chinese folk culture and folk manual embroidery art, the art characteristics of insoles of Han nationality in north China are analyzed and extracted mainly in four aspects： the diversity of technology application; the symmetry of pattern, the constrast and unity of color collocation and the symbolism of the theme. The purpose of the study is to find out the artistic charateristics of insole embroidery of Han nationality in north China, to provide reference for the future study of ethni and regional clothing and to bring inspiration to the art design of footwear today.
作者
王志成
崔荣荣
WANG Zhi-cheng;CUI Rong-rong(College of Textile and Garment,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 215123,China;Jiangsu Intangible Cultural Heritage Base,Wuxi,Jiangsu 215123,China)
出处
《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》
2018年第4期74-79,共6页
Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology
基金
2015年度国家社会科学基金艺术学重点项目"中国汉族纺织服饰文化遗产价值谱系及特色研究"[编号:15AG004]
江苏省"333工程"第二层次中青年领军人才项目[编号:BRA2016366]
关键词
北方汉族
鞋垫
工艺
图案
色彩
刺绣艺术
Han nationality in north China
insoles
technology
pattern
color
embroidery art
