摘要
民国早期人物粉彩瓷风靡一时,记录1912—1929年摩登女性的服饰时尚变迁,是民国时尚研究的重要载体。为了梳理出民国粉彩人物瓷器上的女性服饰时尚的变迁轨迹,文章通过对传世民国人物粉彩瓷实物的分析,从服装造型与装饰的角度研究发现这些服饰的主要特征为:上衣下裳是主要服装形式,并辅以西式的装饰元素;服装款式逐渐由紧窄向宽肥、由直线向曲线过渡;由于时代特征关系旗袍的流行初现端倪,但并未成为主流;整体风格以中式为主、西式为辅、中西结合的特征较为明显。这一方面来自于瓷器作者对时代生活的密切观察,同时也反映出民国初年女性自我意识觉醒及审美天性的解放。
The figure-painting rose porcelain became fashionable for a time in the early Republic of China,and it recorded the transformation of women s clothes and fashion during 1912-1929.It is an important carrier for study on fashion in the Republic of China.In order to sort out the transformation track of women s clothing fashion on the figure-painting rose porcelain,this paper analyzed the real objects of figure-painting rose porcelain in the Republic of China and found out the main features of the clothing from the perspectives of clothing modeling and decoration,i.e.the coat and dress was the main form,supplemented by western style decorative elements;clothing styles gradually changed from tight to loose and from straight line to curve;because of the characteristics of the times,the cheongsam modeling was a flash in the pan;the integral style was given priority to Chinese style,supplemented by western style,and the combination of Chinese and western characteristics was obvious.These conclusions are from the author s careful observation of the life at that time,but also reflects the self-consciousness awakening and the liberation of aesthetic nature of the female in the early years of the Republic of China.
作者
牛犁
崔荣荣
NIU Li;CUI Rongrong(College of Textiles and Clothing,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Research Base for Intangible Culture Heritage of Jiangsu Province,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2018年第3期85-90,共6页
Journal of Silk
基金
国家社科基金艺术学重点项目(15AG004)
江苏省社科项目(16YSB007)
关键词
粉彩瓷
瓷绘
民国
女性服饰
审美变迁
rose porcelain
porcelain painting
Republic of China
women s clothing
aesthetic transformation
