摘要
本文通过对厦门天泉湾人工卵石滩和会展人工沙滩在1614“莫兰蒂”超强台风影响前后的典型剖面监测,结合水文动力要素的观测和数值模拟,计算了台风影响过程的波浪场、总水位,分析了剖面形态和台风过程的剖面平均变化量。结果表明,强潮海岸人工卵石滩与人工沙滩对台风响应的特征明显不同,人工卵石滩横向上大部分卵石向岸输移堆积,滩面侵蚀,滩肩堆积形成更高的风暴滩肩,坡度明显变陡。而人工沙滩则表现为明显的沉积物离岸输运,上部滩面侵蚀,下部滩面淤积,滩面坡度明显变缓,受台风登陆后的强烈向岸风作用,滩肩顶有所夷平,滩肩高度变化很小。海滩滩肩在台风过程中是否侵蚀与台风登陆和影响过程的总水位(天文潮、风暴增水、波浪爬高)密切相关,两个人工海滩的风暴响应模式均为冲蚀;台风影响过程中,波浪能量相对强、滩面坡度相对陡的人工卵石滩比人工沙滩的剖面平均变化量小,对于台风的响应程度小,在强侵蚀高能海岸采用砾石等粗粒径沉积物进行海滩养护是减缓砂质海滩侵蚀的一种有效手段。
By monitoring the typical profiles of the artificial cobble and sandy beach on Xiamen Tianquan Bay and Huizhan before and after the super Typhoon No.1614 Meranti, combined with the observation and numerical simulation of hydrodynamic factors, we calculate the wave field together with the total water level during the typhoon process, and analyze the morphology and the average variation of the profile. Results show that the characteristics of response to typhoon between artificial cobble and sandy beach on macro-tidal coast are significantly different. The majority of cobbles transported onshore, the beach face eroded while the beach berm accumulated to form a higher beach berm, and the slope of the artificial cobble beach is obviously steepened. In contract, the artificial sandy beach shows obvious sediment transport offshore, the upper beach face eroded and the lower beach face deposited, the slope of the beach face obviously become gentler, moreover the top of the beach berm become flattened due to the strong onshore wind after the typhoon landing, and the height of the beach berm almost remain unchanged. Whether the beach berm eroded during typhoon process is closely related to the total water level including astronomical tide, storm surge and wave run-up. During the process of typhoon, the artificial cobble beach characterized with higher wave energy and steeper beach slope showed less profile variation comparing to that of the artificial sandy beach. The artificial cobble beach performed a small degree of response to typhoon. Taken together, it is an effective approach of slowing sandy beach erosion by using gravels and other coarse-grained sediments for beach nourishment on strong eroded high-energy macro-tidal coasts.
作者
束芳芳
蔡锋
戚洪帅
刘建辉
雷刚
Shu Fangfang;Cai Feng;Qi Hongshuai;Liu Jianhui;Lei Gang(College of Marine Geosciences, Ocean University of China, Qingdao 266100, China;Lab of Coastal & Marine Geology, Third Instituteof Oceanography, Ministry of Natural Resources, Xiamen 361005, China;Island Research Center, Ministry of Natural Resources,Pingtan 350400, China)
出处
《海洋学报》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2019年第7期103-115,共13页
基金
国家海洋局第三海洋研究所基本科研业务费(20170305,2011010)
国家公益性行业(海洋)科研专项(201405037)
关键词
强潮海岸
人工卵石滩
人工沙滩
台风响应
macro-tidal coast
artificial cobble beach
artificial sandy beach
typhoon response
