摘要
为研究侗族传统盛装——芦笙服,探寻侗族男装结构与工艺。以北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆藏九洞地区信地芦笙服古上衣实物为例,通过对实物的测量与研究,绘制服装结构分析图,并研究其结构、面料情况与装饰工艺。得到了信地芦笙服上衣第一手测量数据资料及结构分析图,对其典型工艺构成情况有了一定了解,归纳了侗族传统造物观、服饰文化内涵与民族审美观,侗族传统造物观与审美观可为现代服装设计提供可靠的参考元素,同时为侗族服饰研究贡献微薄之力。
To explore the structure and technology of men's clothing of Dong nationality in order to study Lusheng clothing,the traditional dress of Dong nationality.Taking the ancient jacket of Xindi Lusheng clothing in Jiudong area as an example,which is collected by the Museum of Ethnic Garments of Beijing Garment College,through the measurement and research of the object,the clothing structure analysis map was drawn,and the structure,fabric situation and decoration technology were studied.First-hand measurement data and structural analysis maps of Xindi Lusheng jacket were obtained,and its typical technological composition was understood to a certain extent.The traditional concept of creation,cultural connotation of costume and national aesthetics of Dong nationality were summarized.The traditional concept of creation and aesthetics of Dong nationality can provide reliable reference elements for modern fashion design,and contribute little to the study of Dong nationality's dress.
作者
孔艺霖
贺阳
KONG YILIN;HE YANG
出处
《设计》
2019年第15期56-58,共3页
Design
基金
“北京服装学院2019年科研创新项目”支持,项目代码:120301990122/001
“北京服装学院高水平教师队伍建设专项资金”支持,项目编号为:BIFTTD201804
关键词
从江侗族
芦笙服
上衣结构
拼布
刺绣
Dong Nationality in Congjiang
Lusheng clothing
Jacket structure
Patchwork
Embroidery
