摘要
文章以田野考察获得的普兰披单一手资料为研究标本,根据披单中的元素分析,结合文献中对其元素的记载和描述,挖掘披单背后的内涵和成因。披单在著名的普兰孔雀服中为标志性配饰,在阿里不同族属的披单中普遍使用基本图符,倒三角、喜旋纹是藏传佛教法源象征母性的三智,水晶纹象征“佛透”母性慧源(饰于密处),如此在披单上的运用,表现出极程式化的母性宗教色彩。以密符的语言,传达了藏传佛教密宗中雍仲苯教的遗存,并且根据披单中具有苯教内涵的图符起到决定性的作用。根据对披单图符和形制的分析,挖掘到披单中的宗教内涵。在西藏的西部地区,具有如此深刻宗教文化遗存的服饰,可称为西藏文化的活化石,对藏西民族服饰文史研究具有重要的文献价值。
The cloaks that were collected during the field trip were chosen as the research samples.According to the analysis of the element in the cloak,the connotation and formation causes of the cloaks were explored by combining with the literature research.The cloak is an iconic accessory in the famous Peacock clothing.It is used in different parts of Ngari prefecture.The basic patterns on the cloak include inverted triangle and joyful spinning pattern.They symbolize the"San Zhi"(three kinds of intelligence)of mothering in Tibetan Buddhism.The crystal pattern symbolizes"Fo Tou"of the source of mothering.The application of patterns on the cloak shows stylized maternal religious color.The secret symbols convey the remains of Bon in Tibetan Buddhism and play a decision role on the icons with the connotation of bon.Based on the analysis of cloak icon and shape,the religious connotation of cloak was explored.The clothing with such profound religious cultural relics in the west area of Tibet can be called the living fossil of Tibet Culture and has important literature value for studying the culture and history of national dress in Northern Tibet.
作者
常乐
刘瑞璞
CHANG Le;LIU Ruipu(College of Fashion Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2020年第1期92-100,共9页
Journal of Silk
基金
北京市学科建设项目(NHFZ20190110)
关键词
披单
纹章
藏传佛教
苯教
母性
cloak
pattern
Tibetan Buddhism
bon
maternity
