摘要
为改善旗袍胸部牵制感与压迫感,提高旗袍的胸部压力舒适性,对同一结构规格旗袍的门襟、袖型及穿脱方式进行设计组合,利用正交试验制作旗袍样衣,测试出受试者在规定动作下的主客观压力值,并利用AHP法对主客观数据进行综合分析,得出对旗袍压力舒适性影响最大的设计因素及动作。结果表明,双侧门襟、无袖及前门襟穿脱方式的设计因素可以在一定程度上缓解旗袍胸部牵制感和压迫感,提高穿着舒适性;其中袖型因素服装压力值波动最大,对旗袍胸部压力舒适性影响程度更为显著;而规定动作中双手背后这一动作所占权重最高,对旗袍胸部压力舒适性的影响最大。
In order to improve restraint and constriction in the chest of cheongsam,and improve the chest pressure comfort of cheongsam,combinations of placket,sleeve type,and wearing ways of cheongsam of the same construction and specification are designed,sample cheongsams are made via orthogonal test,subjective and objective pressure values of testers with given movements are tested out,and comprehensive analysis is made on the data by AHP method to figure out the most influential design factors and movements of the chest pressure comfort of cheongsam.The results show that the design factors of double front flies,sleeveless and front facing can ease containment and constriction in the chest of cheongsam,and improve the wear comfort.The pressure value of sleeve type fluctuates most drastically,and has the most significant effect on the pressure comfort in the chest of cheongsam.The weight of keeping hands behind is highest among the given movements,and it has the largest effect on the pressure comfort in the chest of cheongsam.
作者
宋莹
SONG Ying(College of Clothing and Textile,Eastern Liaoning University,Dandong 118003,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2020年第4期46-51,共6页
Journal of Silk
关键词
AHP
旗袍
舒适性
牵制感
压迫感
压力值
AHP
cheongsam
comfort
containment
constriction
pressure value
