摘要
[研究意义]苗族挑花是我国的非物质文化遗产,具有独特艺术魅力,但是在保护与传承方面面临着难题。[研究方法]文章以春海苗族挑花馆藏品和章长干的《苗族数纱》图版部分中的泸溪苗族挑花作品以及顾伟伟所提供的花溪苗族挑花作品为研究依据,结合田野考察、文献查阅、图案分析等研究方法,以文字描述和图表展示的方式系统地整理两地苗族挑花的图案类别、构成形式、针法种类及色彩,对其进行归纳和分析。[研究结果和结论]研究认为泸溪苗族挑花与花溪苗族挑花二者同属苗族,因二者地缘差异。泸溪受到楚汉遗风文化的影响,其挑花题材多吉祥寓意纹样而花溪保持着的原生文化色彩;构成形式前者花套花的圆形团花构成,后者"十"字纹的几何构成;前者喜用色彩对比和明度对比,后者擅用明度对比和色彩点缀;前者针法单一严谨且具有格律,后者针法丰富灵活多变。对两个地域的苗族挑花的艺术特征差异分析,总结出二者的异同,具有传承意义,为今后苗族挑花艺术的研究提供一些参考。
As National Intangible Cultur Heritage of China,Miao’s cross-stitch has unique artistic charm, but this art is now facing inheritance difficulties. Taking Luxi Miao’s Cross-Stitch works in Chunhai Miao’s Cross-Stitch Musseum and the book of Miao’s Cross-Stitch and the pictures of Huaxi Miao’s Cross-Stitch provided by Gu Weiwei as the research objects, by means of field investigation, literature review,analysing research and describing and charting pattern and form,needle and color.It concludes that the both of Miao’s Cross-Stitch belong to Miao nationality,Due to different geographic location,the external cause of the culture background and artistic features different,Luxi Miao’s Cross-Stitch has mostly auspicious patterns,circle form and contrast color,needle single and strict,Huaxi Miao’s Cross-Stitch still keep the authentic culture, prefer intersperse color and black in contrast with white,rich needle kinds.
作者
张媛
叶洪光
ZHANG Yuan;YE Hong-guang(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China)
出处
《服饰导刊》
2020年第2期33-40,共8页
Fashion Guide
基金
国家社会科学基金(2017FH04829)。
关键词
泸溪
花溪
苗族挑花
比较研究
Luxi
Huaxi
Miao's cross-stitch
comparative studies
