摘要
以欧洲19世纪末20世纪初的1890—1905年间外套式连衣裙为研究对象,采用文献调查、图文对比、数据采集等方法分析其造型特征并进行样衣实验的复刻研究。研究表明:用现代服装廓形概念界定1890—1905年间的外套式连衣裙以"X"廓形为主,是"新艺术运功"影响下的"S"形艺术风格的直观体现。此时期"X"廓形的造型方式从服装结构、版型的角度分析反映在3个方面:一是肩部(袖子)的膨胀;二是胸、腰围差大,受紧身胸衣的作用托起胸部和勒紧腰部,形成典型的紧窄造型;三是裙子沿着臀部顺滑、流畅向下,至底摆处自然成"喇叭状",增加了下摆的扩张程度。对此造型方式的研究有利于探索欧洲历史女装的结构特征及造型规律。利用CLO 3D虚拟技术实现了欧洲历史女子人体基本躯干的构建与织物拟合还原,对外套式连衣裙的复刻在造型、面料、色彩等艺术风格方面的拟合度较高。
The European coat dress in the late 19 th century and early 20 th century from 1890 to 1905 were taken as the research objects in this article, the methods of literature investigation, image and text comparison, data collection and so on were adopted, combined with CLO 3 D virtual technology to restore and copy the historical clothing, and its shaping features were analyzed. From 1890 to 1905, as an important stage of the transition from traditional to modern European women’s wear, the coat dress was dominated by the "X" silhouette, which was also an intuitive manifestation of the "S" shape art style under the influence of the "new art movement". At that time, "X" silhouette shaping mode was reflected in three aspects from the perspective of garment structural pattern: first, the expansion of shoulder(sleeve);second, the large gap between bust and waist was, which supported the chest and tighten the waist under the effect of tight corset, forming a typical tight and narrow shape;third, the skirt spread smoothly down to the bottom along the hip. It was "trumpet shaped", which increased the expansion degree. The research on the shaping method is helpful to explore the structural characteristics and shaping rules of European historical women’s wear. The CLO 3 D virtual technology was used to realize the construction of women’s human body in European history, and the external coat dress had a high degree of replica fit in shaping, fabric and color.
作者
孙方姣
李强
库茨米切夫·维克多
李月
SUN Fang-jiao;LI Qiang;Kuzmichev Victor;LI Yue(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430200,China;Editorial Department of Fashion Guide,Wuhan 430200,China)
出处
《北京服装学院学报（自然科学版）》
CAS
北大核心
2020年第2期59-68,共10页
Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology：Natural Science Edition
基金
教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目(17YJCZH079)
湖北省服饰艺术与文化研究中心重点项目(2018HFG002)。
