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礼物交换中的纺织品研究——以贵州小黄侗寨为例

Textile Study in Gift Exchange——Taking Xiaohuang Village of G uizhou Province as an Example
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摘要 纺织作为一项科学技术得以发明,是人类文明的巨大进步。从最初采集树叶、剥离兽皮缝制简易衣裙,到逐步认识植物纤维、动物纤维的特性并用之于纺纱织布,人类开始进入穿衣史。同时,纺织品也成为人类一生中所有重要仪式的必备品,如分娩、婚礼和葬礼等,它们或被用作礼物馈赠,或被用来交换,或被用来焚烧、埋葬,也可作为世袭的财富传承给下一代。侗族社会也不例外,侗布、侗锦等纺织品在社会、经济、宗教生活中都起到了非常重要的作用,具有极强的功能性。文章以作为礼物交换的小黄侗寨纺织品为研究对象,通过分析其在满月酒、婚礼中的应用,强调了其在维护社会关系和传承非物质文化遗产中起到的重要作用。 As a scientific technology,the textile technology is a great progress of human civilization.Human beings first acquired leaves and peeled animal skins to sew simple dresses.Then they gradually understood the characteristics of plant fibers and animal fibers,and applied them for spinning and weaving,which represent the beginning of dressing history.On the other hand,in many societies,textiles have become an essential item for human life in all the important ceremonies such as childbirths,weddings,and funerals,etc.They are used as gifts to be exchanged,or used to burn,bury,and also as hereditary wealth to be inherited by the next generation.The Dong society is no exception.Their traditional textiles,including cloth,brocade,and embroidery,have played a very important role in their social,economic and religious life.In this paper,I take the Dong textiles from gift exchange in Xiaohuang Village as the research object.Through the analysis of its application in the celebration of a baby’s completion of its first month of life and wedding ceremony,I affirm the important role of Dong textile in the maintenance of social relations and inheritance of intangible cultural heritage.
作者 夏梦颖 XIA Mengying(School of History and Culture,Sichuan University,Chengdu Sichuan 610065,China)
出处 《自然与文化遗产研究》 2020年第7期74-83,共10页 Study on Natural and Cultural Heritage
基金 国家社会科学基金项目“贵州苗、侗、布依等民族传统纺织文化的传承困境与现状调查研究”(18CMZ020)阶段性成果。
关键词 侗族 小黄村 纺织 礼物交换 Dong Minority Xiaohuang Village textiles gift exchange
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