摘要
使用酿酒酵母对黑枸杞进行发酵,获得黑枸杞发酵液。从成分、安全性、抗衰老效果三个方面对其进行检测和评价,为其在化妆品领域的应用提供基础。首先从生化水平对黑枸杞发酵液清除自由基能力进行检测,接着从细胞水平评估黑枸杞发酵液对人成纤维细胞内的胶原蛋白、胶原蛋白酶以及抗氧化酶活性的影响进行检测,最后使用鸡胚尿囊膜和人体斑贴试验对黑枸杞发酵液的眼刺激性和皮肤安全性进行评价。结果表明,黑枸杞发酵液富含多糖和蛋白质,多酚、黄酮和原花青素含量较少。黑枸杞发酵液具有良好的清除DPPH自由基和ABTS+自由基的能力,IC50分别为8.15%和1.08%。此外,5%体积分数的黑枸杞发酵液能够促进胶原蛋白合成,含量为对照组的137.84%(p<0.01),同时能够抑制胶原蛋白酶的表达,含量为对照组的70.41%(p<0.01)。1%体积分数的黑枸杞发酵液能够极显著提升成纤维细胞内抗氧化酶活性(p<0.01),提高总抗氧化能力以及抑制活性氧的生成(p<0.01)。鸡胚尿囊膜试验和人体斑贴试验结果显示黑枸杞发酵液具有较高的眼睛安全性和皮肤安全性。
Saccharomyces cerevisiae was used to ferment Lycium ruthenicum to obtain fermented Lycium ruthenicum broth(FLRB).The components of FLRB were detected and the safety and the anti-aging effect were evaluated.These results would provide theoretical basis for its application in the field of cosmetics.Firstly,the free radical scavenging ability of FLRB was tested at the biochemical level,and then the antiaging effects were evaluated at cellular level,including collagen formation,expression of collagenase,and activities of antioxidant enzymes in human fibroblasts.Finally,the eye irritation and skin safety of the FLRB were tested by chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane and human patch experiments.Results show that the FLRB is rich in polysaccharides and proteins,and is less in flavonoids,polyphenols and proanthocyanidins.The FLRB has significant ability to scavenge DPPH free radicals and ABTS+free radicals,with IC50 values of 8.15%and 1.08%,respectively.The FLRB of 5%volume fraction can promote collagen production to a content being 137.84%(p<0.01)of the control group and can inhibit collagenase production to a content being 70.41%(p<0.01)of the control group.The activities of GSH-Px and CAT and the total antioxidant capacity are significantly(p<0.01)improved and reactive oxygen species is significantly(p<0.01)inhibited by the FLRB of 1%volume fraction.Chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane experiment and human patch test show that the FLRB is safe to human eyes and skin.
作者
赵丹
王昌涛
李萌
张佳婵
王冬冬
Dan Zhao;Changtao Wang;Meng Li;Jiachan Zhang;Dongdong Wang(Key Laboratory of Plant Resources Research and Development,College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering,Beijing Technolgoy&Business University,Beijing 100048,China;Beijing Advanced Innovation Center for Food Nutrition and Human Health,Beijing Technology&Business University,Beijing 100048,China)
出处
《日用化学工业》
CAS
北大核心
2021年第8期761-767,共7页
China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics
关键词
黑枸杞
发酵
抗衰老
安全性
Lycium ruthenicum
fermentation
anti-aging
safety