摘要
西裤裆部的处理对其合体性和舒适性非常重要,针对传统平面制板的裆部处理方法不够便捷有效的问题,提出一种简便的西裤裆部修正处理方法。该方法通过采用三维扫描获得人体裆弯线,将该曲线与缝合态放置时的标准纸样裆部曲线进行修正和拟合,获得合体的修正纸样。模特试穿成裤的效果表明,相对于标准纸样的原型裤,采用修正纸样所制的西裤能够减小紧绷感、减少褶皱,更加合体和舒适。
The treatment of the crotch of pants is very important for its fit and comfort.Aiming at the problem that the crotch treatment method of traditional plane plate making was not convenient and effective,a simple crotch correction method of pants was proposed.In this method,the crotch curve of human body was obtained based on 3D scanning.Through this curve,the crotch curve of the standard paper pattern placed in the stitched state was corrected and fitted to obtain the fit modified paper pattern.The effect of the model's trial on the made pants shows that compared to the prototype pants with the standard paper pattern,the pants made with the modified paper pattern can reduce the tightness and wrinkles,and are more fit and comfortable.
作者
陈郁
陈璐
方琦
CHEN Yu;CHEN Lu;FANG Qi(School of Textiles and Fashion,Shanghai University of Engineering Science,Shanghai 201620,China)
出处
《服装学报》
2022年第1期1-5,共5页
Journal of Clothing Research
基金
上海市教育委员会东方学者项目(TP2017074)。
