摘要
19世纪末至20世纪初,中国传统服装和配饰传入西方后,有一部分根据西方人的想象与理解被解构和改造,以适应西方时尚文化,这一过程实际是中国传统服饰在西方的“再语境化”。基于这一时期的服装、配饰和相关历史照片、画作,并结合历史文献资料,对该时期中国传统服装及配饰在西方被使用、改造的情况及原因等进行分析,探讨中国传统服饰在西方的“再语境化”。研究表明,中国传统服装及配饰在西方的“再语境化”经历了从直接模仿到中西混搭及解构、改造,再到对“中国风”进行再创造的过程,这种变化与政治形势、社会生活和人们审美情趣、价值取向的发展变化息息相关,为了解中西文化的差异和服饰文化领域西方视野下的中国文化形象及变迁提供参考。
From the late 19th century to the early 20th century,when Chinese traditional costume and accessories were introduced into the West,some of them were deconstructed and transformed according to the imagination and understanding of Westerners,so as to adapt to western fashion culture.This process was actually the"re-contextualization"of Chinese traditional clothing in the West.Based on the costume,accessories and related historical photos and paintings of this period,combined with historical documents,this paper analyzed the use,transformation and reasons of Chinese traditional costume and accessories in the West during this period,and discusses the"re-contextualization"of Chinese traditional costume in the West.Results show that Chinese traditional costume and accessories in the West have experienced a process from direct imitation to Chinese and Western mix and match,deconstruction,transformation and re-creation of"Chinese style".This change is related to the development and change of political situation,social life,aesthetic taste and value orientation,which provides a reference for understanding the differences between Chinese and Western cultures and the image and change of Chinese culture in the Western vision of costume culture.
作者
罗兴连
LUO Xinglian(The Memorial Museum of Generalissimo Sun Yat-Sen's Mansion,Guangzhou 510220,China)
出处
《服装学报》
2022年第5期428-439,共12页
Journal of Clothing Research
关键词
解构
改造
中国传统服饰
中国想象
再语境化
deconstruction
transformation
Chinese traditional costume
Chinese fancy
re-contextualization
