摘要
民国时期旗袍款式及纹样的风格在西方文化影响下发生较大转变,其色彩在一定程度上能够反映出当时人们社会生活背景及情感偏好。文章通过对民国旗袍用色风格及配色规律的分析研究,可将传统设计方案再应用于三维虚拟设计中。在代表色提取方面,采用结合超像素分割的模糊C均值聚类、K-means分通道二次聚类方法分别对单幅和多幅纹样色彩进行提取,两种方法结合提高了色彩采集的效率,最终提取得到24个民国旗袍代表色彩。与日本色研配色体系(PCCS)结合分析色彩分布规律,依据Apriori算法发掘色彩之间的共现关系,最终得到13条双色及5条三色搭配规则,发现色彩整体具有稳重素雅的风格且配色间对比度较低。根据置信度数值组成不同的色彩网络,建立了面向用户选择的色彩推荐机制,并结合三维虚拟试衣软件将面料图案纹样应用于旗袍款式进行展示。研究结果可为旗袍图案的再设计应用提供一定的理论参考。
Under the influence of Western culture,the style and pattern of cheongsams were significantly transformed during the Republic of China period.The color is sometimes considered as one of the symbols that can represent people’s social background and emotional preferences.The analysis in this paper was based on 414 images of cheongsam patterns from the Republic of China.To begin with,the colors were digitally extracted,and then a rule-based analysis of color style was performed.Finally,the traditional color scheme was re-applied to the new design using the user-friendly 3D virtual design software.For color extraction,the main colors of a single pattern were used as a sample,and then they were combined to provide the overall representative colors.Superpixel-based Fast Fuzzy C-means Clustering(SFFCM)and K-means split-channel clustering algorithms were employed to extract single and multiple pattern colors.In the processing of color images,the original color pixels are simplified efficiently by superpixel segmentation,so the SFFCM provides better segmentation results and takes less time than fuzzy C-mean clustering.The color distribution and silhouette coefficient were used to determine the optimal clustering number.Then the 414 images were clustered separately to extract the corresponding main colors,and a total of 1725 color values were obtained.It can visually display the color and the proportion of the images by reducing a complicated image to basic numbers,which makes the subsequent analysis and data processing easier.After that,the number of colors was further decreased using K-means clustering to get the most representative color.Based on the HSV non-uniform quantization model,the hue values of 1725 colors were first divided into eight categories,and then the lightness and saturation values in each category were clustered independently.Finally,they were integrated into 24 representative colors and corresponding color cards.Following the collection of data,the cheongsam patterns were analyzed in terms of both the color style and the color matching rules.The colors were primarily concentrated in yellow and red.Green,cyan,and other cool colors were used in smaller amounts.It can be seen that the costume system was changed at that time,and the use of colors was no longer frowned upon,so people had more freedom in their choices.The cheongsam pattern colors were primarily found in the low-medium saturation,medium-high lightness,and low contrast color regions,which was different from the feudal era when the clothing system mainly emphasized vivid and contrasting colors to express powerful national sentiments.The lightness and saturation of the distribution pattern caused cheongsams to be more simple and elegant in style.Meanwhile,the tonal distribution of cheongsam pattern colors was analyzed with the PCCS system.The values of the S and V channels were divided evenly,and then related to the system to ascertain the color tones and calculate their percentages.The result shows that the cheongsam pattern colors are primarily concentrated in five tones.The most prevalent is light grayish,making up 26.55%of all colors.Grayish and soft colors come in second and third with 19.24%and 16.46%,respectively.In addition,pale and light colors also account for more than 8%.However,there aren’t many other colors,particularly the bright,vibrant,or other colors with strong color preferences,which only make up roughly 1%of the total color distribution.On the one hand,the theory of the Western color system progressively influenced people’s aesthetic tastes,and as a result,the neutral color series became the trend for garment during that time.On the other hand,the number of colors and the quality of printed fabrics were both improved concurrently with advancements in textile printing and dyeing technologies.The color matching rules are explored by the Apriori algorithm,and there are 13 two-color and five three-color matching rules discovered with low contrast between or among colors,which has some significance on the recommendation of color schemes.It can create a network of various color combinations by discovering the most representative color co-occurrences,and the method can offer more varied design possibilities based on users’selection and confidence value.In order to test the effect of recommendations,a long cheongsam was chosen with a standing collar,one-piece sleeves,and slant opening.The style is simple and in line with the general shape of the Republic of China cheongsams,which can more naturally express the color style and design effect.The fabric pattern was incorporated into the cheongsam’s overall appearance by 3D virtual fitting software.The findings demonstrate that the color schemes and tonal collocations correspond to the traditional cheongsams with stable and elegant characteristics.Digital technology helps to analyze color schemes of cheongsam patterns in the Republic of China objectively and achieve design recommendations,which will provide a theoretical guide for re-designing cheongsam patterns.
作者
赵崧灵
章玲玲
顾冰菲
ZHAO Songling;ZHANG Lingling;GU Bingfei(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Provincial Research Center of Fashion Engineering Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;MOC Key Laboratoryof Silk Culture Heritage and Product Design Digital Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2022年第11期64-73,共10页
Journal of Silk
基金
国家自然科学基金项目(61702461,61702460)
中国纺织工业联合会科技指导性项目(2018079)
中国纺织工业联合会应用基础研究项目(J202007)
浙江理工大学科研业务费专项资金资助项目(2020Q051)
浙江理工大学服装服饰文化创新团队项目(11310031282006)。
关键词
民国旗袍
聚类算法
PCCS体系
关联规则
色彩搭配
织物设计
cheongsams in the Republic of China
clustering algorithm
PCCS system
association rules
color matching
fabric design
