摘要
为拓展针织镂空服装的设计思路,参考市面上已有的三列镂空网孔服装,确定镂空网孔孔径、孔距、间距等可能影响三列镂空网孔形态的设计因素。采用控制变量法设计3组共18种样品,利用图像采集和处理的方式采集三列镂空网孔的形变数据进行分析。结果表明:镂空网孔孔径和间距影响三列镂空网孔的镂空宽度,与镂空宽度呈正相关,织物的横向伸长率越大,孔径对镂空宽度的影响越明显,而间距增加对镂空宽度的影响较小;镂空网孔孔径和间距同样会影响三列镂空网孔中单个镂空网孔的横径,其中孔径与横径呈正相关,间距与横径呈负相关;三列镂空网孔中各位置的镂空网孔形状固定,其中顶孔和侧孔为扇形孔,中孔为多边形孔,各孔横径排序为中孔>顶孔>侧孔。
In order to expand the design idea of knitted hollow clothing,the design and deformation of warp-knitted fully-formed three-columns'hollow meshes were analyzed and predicted.Take the clothing with three-columns'hollow meshes in the market as reference,the design factors that may affect the shape of the three-columns'hollow meshes were determined,such as number of mesh grids,number of vertically spacing grids and number of transverse spacing grids.Three groups total of 18 samples were designed by the control variate method.The deformation data of the three-columns'hollow meshes were collected and analyzed by image acquisition and processing.The results show that the number of grids and number of transverse spacing grids affect the width of three-columns'hollow meshes.The number of grids and number of transverse spacing grids are positively correlated with the width of three-columns'hollow meshes.The greater the transverse elongation of the fabric,the more obvious the influence of aperture on the width of three-columns'hollow meshes;the increase of spacing has little influence on the width of three-columns'hollow meshes.The number of grids and number of transverse spacing grids also affect the transverse diameter of each single hollow mesh,in which the number of grids is positively correlated with the transverse diameter,while the number of transverse spacing grids is negatively correlated with transverse diameter.The shape of hollow meshes at each position in the three-columns'hollow meshes are fixed.The top meshes and the side meshes are fan-shaped holes,and the middle meshes are polygonal.The transverse diameter of each hole is ordered as:middle meshes>top meshes>side meshes.
作者
郭燕雨秋
董智佳
蒋高明
姚思宏
GUO Yanyuqiu;DONG Zhijia;JIANG Gaoming;YAO Sihong(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)
出处
《服装学报》
CAS
2023年第3期217-222,共6页
Journal of Clothing Research
基金
国家自然科学基金项目(61902150)。
关键词
经编成形
镂空
形变分析
尺寸预测
warp-knitted fully-formed
hollow
deformation analysis
prediction of size
