摘要
介绍了常见雄激素性脱发,免疫性脱发和其他类型的脱发诱因及其发生机制,分析了常见的活性成分如何通过抵抗雄激素作用,调控毛囊生长周期,减少毛囊损伤,改善微循环和能量代谢等方式,达到促进头发与毛囊的附着与强健和促进毛囊正常化的效果,从而实现防脱发功效。简述了防脱发常用的3类功效评价方法,其中体外试验可以通过特定的指标研究不同的作用通路,而在体试验和离体试验既可以研究作用通路又可以直观的评估防脱发效果,需要根据实际情况灵活选择。最后,针对目前化妆品法规下防脱发产品的开发进行了简单讨论,产品开发需要从脱发机制出发,多维度多角度评估活性成分和产品以达到更好的防脱发效果。
The causes and mechanisms of common androgenic alopecia,immune-related alopecia,and other types of hair loss were introduced.It was analyzed how active ingredients counteract the androgens’effect,regulate the growth cycle of hair follicles,reduce the damage to hair follicles,and improve microcirculation and energy metabolism to promote the anchoring and strength of hair to follicles,and promote the hair follicle normalization,thus preventing hair loss.Three commonly used evaluation methods for anti-hair loss efficacy were introduced.In-vitro method could be used to study different pathways through specific indicators,while in-vivo and ex-vivo methods could be used to not only study the pathways but also evaluate the effects of anti-hair loss.Methods could be chosen according to the actual situations.Finally,a brief discussion on how to develop anti-hair loss products under current cosmetic regulations was given.Product development could be started from the mechanism of hair loss and the evaluation of active ingredients and products from multiple dimensions and perspectives to achieve better anti-hair loss effects.
作者
邓正巧
刘聪颖
张敏
DENG Zheng-qiao;LIU Cong-ying;ZHANG Min(Henkel HCB Asia R&D Center,Shanghai 200438,China)
出处
《日用化学品科学》
CAS
2023年第8期27-33,共7页
Detergent & Cosmetics
关键词
防脱发
脱发类型
脱发发生机制
防脱发作用通路
功效评估
anti-hair loss
hair loss type
hair loss mechanism
pathway of anti-hair loss
efficacy evaluation
