摘要
针对经编双针床贾卡鞋材的网孔大多由经绒组织、经平组织与编链组织构成,在网孔形状和结构形态上较单一的问题,在研究“1×8”偏移信号的双针床贾卡组织原理与特征的基础上,进一步分析贾卡鞋材的二维和三维网孔结构的变化机制,并进行一款三维网孔结构鞋材的设计与开发。首先通过分析双针床三针贾卡技术的偏移原理与贾卡延展线的编织形态,对双针床贾卡组织单元进行分类总结;再将贾卡组织单元进行有规律的搭配设计,研究不同形状和立体效应的二维和三维网孔结构的设计原理;最后通过鞋材的原料工艺设计与贾卡组织设计,在RDPJ6/2经编机上完成一款三维网孔结构贾卡鞋材的织造。结果表明:8个偏移信号的双针床贾卡提花工艺可显著提高贾卡鞋材网孔结构的多样化和立体化,提升贾卡鞋材的穿着舒适性能和外观时尚性。
Objective Warp knitted jacquard mesh structures for shoe making are mostly created using tricot stitch,satin tricot stitch and chain stitch.The stitches are generally elliptical and lack three-dimensional structural features,and mesh structures are simple in style.Based on the characteristics of the double needle-bed jacquard stitching with"1×8"offset signals,the two-dimensional(2-D)and three-dimensional(3-D)jacquard mesh mechanisms for shoe application were further analyzed,and a 3-D mesh structured shoe fabric was designed and developed on RDPJ6/2 warp-knitting machine,aiming to improve the wearing comfort and fashion appearance of shoe fabrics.Method The formation principles of double needle-bed jacquard stitches with 8 offset signals were studied.By analyzing the rules guiding the overlap and underlap,the stitches were categorized as single needle-bed jacquard stitch and double needle-bed jacquard stitch,and the 3-D loop structure and jacquard effect were further studied.The design mechanisms for diamond,rectangle and hexagon of 2-D mesh structure were explored based on the analysis of the underlap of single needle-bed jacquard stitch.Through the combination design of the jacquard structures,the design mechanisms for the single-mesh,double-mesh separation and double-mesh connection for 3-D mesh structures were studied.By selecting the raw material and jacquard stitch,a shoe fabric product with 3-D mesh structure was knitted on the RDPJ6/2 warp-knitting machine.Results The results showed that single needle-bed jacquard stitch could be looped on either the front needle bed or the back needle bed to create four jacquard effects,i.e.,the thick effect,thin effect,mesh effect and floating line effect(Fig.2).The underlap of thick/thin/mesh-birdeye point connection jacquard stitch was in the middle layer and it had double-layer jacquard effect,forming a thick,thin or mesh effect on one layer and a birdeye effect on the other layer(Fig.3).The underlap of birdeye point-birdeye point connection jacquard stitch was also located in the middle layer,and single or multiple birdeye effects were formed on both layers(Fig.4).The combination design of warp knitting chain stitch,tricot stitch,miss-lapping stitch and two-needle stitch would form 2-D mesh structures with different shapes such as diamond,rectangle and hexagon(Fig.5).The 3-D mesh structure was classified into two types of 3-D mesh structure on single layer,3-D mesh structure with two separate meshes on double layers and 3-D mesh structure with underlap-connective meshes on double layers(Fig.6,Fig.8,and Fig.10).The double-layer mesh structure not only increased the three-dimensional diversity of the mesh structure,but also brought better air circulation for the shoe fabric,supplemented by the product of 3-D mesh structure jacquard shoe fabric for verification(Fig.11).Conclusion The double needle-bed jacquard process with 8 offset signals can significantly improve the diversification and 3-D effect of the mesh structures.Innovation in the 3-D mesh structure helps promote the fashion and functionality of warp knitted jacquard shoe fabrics.The three-dimensional mesh structure could have intelligent application prospects by virtue of its good air permeability and three-dimensional structure.In the future,testing experiments on the air permeability and bursting performance of the mesh structure can be carried out to further analyze the intelligent application scenarios of different mesh structures.
作者
孙园园
张琦
张燕婷
丁宁宇
左露娇
SUN Yuanyuan;ZHANG Qi;ZHANG Yanting;DING Ningyu;ZUO Lujiao(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)
出处
《纺织学报》
EI
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2023年第11期98-104,共7页
Journal of Textile Research
基金
国家自然科学基金项目(61902150)
中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(JUSRP122003)。
关键词
经编鞋面材料
双针床经编工艺
贾卡提花技术
双针床贾卡组织
二维网孔结构
三维网孔结构
warp knitted shoe fabric
double needle-bed warp-knitting
jacquard technology
double needle-bed jacquard stitch
two-dimensional mesh structure
three-dimensional mesh structure
