摘要
针对目前经编全成形镂空网孔服装开发中需要多次打样修改、工序长、原料浪费的问题,在分析女性上半身尺寸基础上,结合经编全成形原理进行镂空紧身衣的结构设计与开发。首先确定服装原型与款式,在手臂、前身和后身部位加入镂空元素。同时在2种基础贾卡组织上设计12种镂空网孔,进行样品试织与镂空网孔形变程度测量,探究织物伸长率与镂空网孔形变率的线性关系,总结镂空网孔及周边组织形变规律,建立经编全成形镂空紧身衣网孔形变尺寸预测模型。使用WKCAD软件设计贾卡组织,导出应用形变尺寸预测模型后的镂空二维仿真衣片,应用Style3D软件进行服装三维建模与虚拟展示,并通过织造和后整理得到成衣。研究结果表明,成衣穿着效果与仿真建模比较误差较小,该预测模型具有可行性,可为实现经编全成形镂空紧身衣的新品开发提供参考。
Objective Hollow\|meshes are widely used in fabrics and clothing,but there is little research on warp-knitted hollow-mesh clothing to enable the design of hollow maillot with different sizes and styles.Warp-knitted hollow garments are greatly deformed after wearing,and many efforts are needed during the design process,leading to prolonged working procedures and waste of raw materials.This research aims to investigation the tensile deformation of hollow mesh to improve production efficiency.Method When knitting,the jacquard makes chain knitting movement on the bottom fabric and does not form a connection in the adjacent wales,resulting in cracks in the fabric.This is the principle of forming hollow meshes in warp-knitted full-formed fabrics.Based on this principle,the hollow maillot was designed,which was made on RDPJ6/2 jacquard warp-knitting machine with nylon(44.4 dtex)and nylon/spandex covered yarn(22.2 dtex/55.6 dtex).Twelve woven fabrics with different hollow\|meshes were designed with the same raw materials and process parameters,and eight observation points were added at the edge of the hollow\|meshes to study the influence of the crosswise elongation of woven fabrics on the mesh morphology.Result Tight maillot was designed the style of tights according to the characteristics and specific dimensions of women′s upper body.The hollow\|meshes were added and distributed longitudinally at equal intervals on the front,back and sleeves(Fig.2).Jacquard stitches were formed according to the structural design drawing of a hollow maillot,with thin organization and thick organization as the bottom fabric respectively(Fig.5).When the crosswise elongation of the samples increased,the crosswise diameter CC′tended to increase(Fig.7),and vice versa.The correlation coefficients between the crosswise diameter CC′and the woven fabric elongation were all greater than 0.95,which shows a significant correlation.Besides,the three observation points on the same side fitted well with the top and bottom observation points on the parabola.The ratio of crosswise diameter CC′to vertical diameter AE(crosswise-vertical ratio)was linearly related to the fabric elongation(Fig.8),in which the linear relationship between the crosswise-lengthways ratio y g of thin tissue hollow-mesh and fabric elongation x was found to be y g=0.0129 x+0.185.The linear relationship between the crosswise-vertical ratio y h of thick tissue hollow-mesh and fabric elongation x was y h=0.0115 x+0.15.The hollow-mesh and the surrounding bottom fabric were divided into several zones,and the calculation model of the length of the hollow-mesh crosswise diameter CC′was deduced and the calculation model of the width of pattern and width of area e was designed(Fig.9).The actual mesh shape was calculated based on the model data,and it was simulated using WKCAD of Jiangnan University and Lingdi Style3D full-forming clothing module(Fig.11).Conclusion According to the tensile experiment of the hollow-mesh,there is a linear relationship between the shape change of the hollow-mesh and the elongation of the fabric.The deformation law of the tissues around the hollow-mesh is summarized,and the deformation prediction model of the hollow-mesh under tensile conditions is established.Through the prediction model,the deformation of the hollow-mesh is calculated,and the hollow maillot is modeled and simulated by WKCAD software of Jiangnan University and Style3D software of Lingdi Company,and the 3-D model of the deformed hollow maillot is obtained.By comparing the model with the shape of the deformed hollow-mesh,it is found that the error is controlled within the allowable range.
作者
董智佳
郭燕雨秋
刘海桑
姚思宏
DONG Zhijia;GUO Yanyuqiu;LIU Haisang;YAO Sihong(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)
出处
《纺织学报》
EI
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2023年第12期130-137,共8页
Journal of Textile Research
基金
国家自然科学基金项目(61902150)。
关键词
经编
全成形
镂空网孔
紧身衣
结构设计
预测模型
warp-knitted
fully formed
hollow-mesh
maillot
structure design
prediction model
