摘要
研究通过拉曼光谱法和经皮吸收荧光标记法,探究三肽-1铜从表皮层到真皮浅层的经皮吸收规律。实验结果显示,通过拉曼光谱法的检测,与空白皮肤相比较,三肽-1铜在1560~1600 cm^(-1)为特征信号峰,三肽-1铜在皮肤作用4 h后,在皮肤0~100μm处均有经皮吸收,经皮吸收相对总量1.0403 a.u.。通过经皮吸收荧光标记法的检测结果表明,三肽-1铜在皮肤上分别作用1,4,24 h后,相对荧光强度分别为2.84×10^(6)、3.99×10^(6)、8.87×10^(6),随着作用时间的增加,相对经皮吸收量与经皮吸收深度均在逐渐增加,并且确定了三肽-1铜能够达到真皮层。该研究表明,三肽-1铜可以经由角质层和毛孔进入活性表皮层直至真皮浅层,从而具备发挥功效的基础,明确了三肽-1铜的经皮吸收方式,以及在更深层皮肤的经皮吸收规律,为其功效研究和配方应用提供了参考。
Copper tripeptide-1 is a natural bioactive substance with the functions of anti-aging,antioxidation,wound healing,repairing damaged hair,promoting hair growth,etc.It has been increasingly used as cosmetic raw material,and its ability to penetrate the skin is crucial for cosmetics to play beneficial role.The percutaneous absorption of copper tripeptide-1 from epidermis to superficial dermis was investigated by Raman spectroscopy and fluorescent labelling method.The test results showed that,compared with the blank skin,the characteristic signal peak of copper tripeptide-1 was 1560~1600 cm^(-1),and copper tripeptide-1 was absorbed at depth of 0~100μm after 4 h on the skin.The relative total amount of the percutaneous absorption was 1.0403 a.u.The results obtained by fluorescent labelling method showed that,the relative fluorescence intensity of copper tripeptide-1 was 2.84×10^(6),3.99×10^(6)and 8.87×10^(6)after treatment for 1 h,4 h and 24 h,respectively.The relative amount and the depth of percutaneous absorption both increased gradually with the increase of the time of treatment,and it was confirmed that copper tripeptide-1 was able to reach the dermis.This study showed that copper tripeptide-1 could penetrate into the epidermis and dermis through the stratum corneum and pores,and thus providing the basis for its efficacy.This study also clarified the mode of percutaneous absorption of copper tripeptide-1,as well as the rule of percutaneous absorption in the deeper skin,which provided references for its efficacy study and formulation application.
作者
倪芳
李静
冯法晴
马变变
梁超
张晓洁
孙丽丽
NI Fang;LI Jing;FENG Fa-qing;MA Bian-bian;LIANG Chao;ZHANG Xiao-jie;SUN Li-li(EviSkin Cosmetics Technology(Beijing)Co.,Ltd.,Beijing 102401,China)
出处
《日用化学品科学》
CAS
2024年第2期28-32,共5页
Detergent & Cosmetics
关键词
三肽-1铜
经皮吸收
拉曼光谱法
荧光标记法
copper tripeptide-1
percutaneous absorption
Raman spectroscopy
fluorescent labeling method
