摘要
绣缀工艺以其特有的多变性和造型性,丰富了服装立体裁剪的整体表现力。针对绣缀法分类模糊及其在立体裁剪技术理论及应用上研究较少的问题,通过研究绣缀法设计的服装,总结绣缀法的分类及技术要点、绣缀法在服装立体裁剪中的操作方法及技巧,提出基于绣缀法的服装立体裁剪技术原则。包括衣身造型线的确定原则、人体不同部位绣缀造型确定原则、绣缀隐蔽省道原则、绣缀凹凸整理原则、夸张造型绣缀原则、逐渐调整造型原则、重点绣缀原则、绣缀正反面互用原则等。对绣缀法服装立体裁剪技术的应用研究,拓展了立体裁剪的设计技术空间,进一步延伸了绣缀法在服装立体裁剪中的技术应用。
Embroidery is a technique in the three-dimensional composition of clothing,which forms a rotating,concave and convex three-dimensional texture through manual stitching,forming an elegant and unique shape on the clothing.Although the embroidery method has some practical applications in three-dimensional cutting,there is little theoretical research on the classification of embroidery methods and the technology of three-dimensional cutting embroidery methods.The classification of embroidery methods in clothing,the operation methods and techniques of embroidery methods in three-dimensional clothing was summarized in this article,and the principles and applications of embroidery method in three-dimensional clothing cutting technology was proposed.Through the research on the three-dimensional cutting technology of embroidery,the design space of three-dimensional cutting has been expanded,and the technical application of embroidery in three-dimensional cutting of clothing has been further expanded.This provides a flexible reference for clothing designers to achieve the best visual effect of clothing.
作者
邹平
李璐
ZOU Ping;LI Lu(School of Textile and Garment,Liaodong University,Dandong,Liaoning 118003,China)
出处
《毛纺科技》
CAS
北大核心
2024年第3期96-102,共7页
Wool Textile Journal
关键词
绣缀法
立体裁剪
技术原则
服装
针法
embroidery method
three-dimensional cutting
technical principle
clothing
acupuncture
