摘要
长期以来,宋女日常服色的观点抵牾杂驳,聚讼纷纭。文章通过梳理过往研究,以社会生活史为基本视野,以二重证据法结合传世绘画、出土实物、札记、诗文等探讨宋代女性生活服饰色彩的总体情状。文章认为宋代女装色彩浓艳绚烂和质朴淡雅两种格调并峙。文章从皮尔斯“规约符号”的观点出发,认为色彩作为规约符号在政治场合之外、日常生活里只在男性群体中发挥作用,在女性那里并没有具体明晰的规范。宋代女性服色的研究通常以传世绘画为端绪。然而,大多数为文人主持并收藏流转的绘画并不能完整反映时装服色系统的真实情况,政治理念与生活实践之间存在张力与裂隙。宋代女性生活色彩丰富多变。色彩研究必须认识到历史的参与者,即“人”的复杂性,并从日常生活的多重视角出发,才能在丰富纷杂的历史材料中括撮出女服色彩的具体写真。
The resurgence of traditional cultural discourse in recent times catalyzes a notable surge in scholarly attention towards women’s clothing of the Song Dynasty(960-1279 A.D.).The scholarly inquiry into the intricate realms of Song Dynasty attire,weaving techniques,and the chromatic nuances of embroidery persists as a focal point of academic discourse,garnering considerable acclaim and engendering substantial scholarly output as archaeological endeavors unfold.Against the backdrop of stark dichotomies delineating“tradition”from“modernity”,“conservatism”from“progressivism”,certain scholarly inquiries into Song Dynasty sartorial culture have been inclined to depict the prevailing ethos of the era as one characterized by restraint and conservatism,juxtaposed against a romanticized portrayal of the Tang Dynasty(618-907 A.D.).Contemporary scholarship remains ensnared within the dialectic tension engendered by these perspectives.The scarcity of surviving tangible remnants associated with women’s clothing of the Song Dynasty,coupled with stringent mandates for the preservation of excavated garments and the scarcity of readily available data concerning coloration,has precipitated a tumultuous arena of divergent perspectives regarding the hues adorning women’s garments during this historical epoch.Consequently,a reliance solely upon iconic artifacts for scholarly inquiry is inherently insufficient.A more nuanced and comprehensive understanding of the colors of women’s clothing in their daily life in the Song Dynasty should be achieved through a rigorous interrogation of the archival documentation of contemporary human life at that time.The article takes the perspective of life history and employs the dual-evidence method,combining handed-down paintings,unearthed artifacts,notes,poems,and other records to explore the overall situation of the color system of attire worn by women in their daily lives in the Song Dynasty.The article draws upon Pierce’s semiotics and posits that color,functioning as a conventional symbolic entity,is asserted to exert its influence exclusively within the male societal domain,exhibiting a dearth of explicit and well-defined norms for women in their quotidian affairs.In ancient times,while the color differentiation of attire existed between men and women,with men needing colors to signify social status,Confucian ethics and cultural conventions primarily regulated women’s adornment in terms of materials and craftsmanship to prevent extravagance.Furthermore,throughout the epochs spanning the Tang and Song Dynasties,cultural conventions exerted a more conspicuous influence on the general outline of attire than on its chromatic aspects.The burgeoning of commercial enterprises and the ascent of the urban bourgeoisie engendered a milieu ripe for the proliferation of textile resources.Concurrently,the elevation of women’s societal stature and the broadening of their social engagements cultivated an ambiance conducive to opulent and resplendent attire.The sartorial predilections of the urban middle class seamlessly harmonized with those of the aristocratic elite,fostering a symbiotic exchange of aesthetic sensibilities.During the epoch of the Song Dynasty,the endeavor to attain sartorial magnificence stood in parity with the grandiose pursuits observed in the antecedent Tang era.From historical records detailing dyeing techniques and craftsmanship,it is discernible that the chromatic spectrum of Song Dynasty women’s clothing colors in their quotidian existence was extensive,characterized by intricate color combinations that surpassed those of the Tang era in terms of ingenuity and refinement.Upon examination of unearthed artifacts and mural depictions,it becomes apparent that the repertoire of hues adorning the everyday attire of Song Dynasty women exhibited an augmentation of composite colors.This observation suggests the heightened richness in chromatic variety during the Song era compared to preceding periods.Furthermore,literary compositions authored predominantly by the scholar-officials scribes provide vivid testament to the diverse chromatic ensembles donned by Song Dynasty women.The Confucian ethos and social norms of the time,venerating the ethos of refined femininity,transcended the mere adornment of clothing,emphasizing instead the cultivation of inner grace and propriety.During the Song Dynasty,the aesthetic ideals upheld by literati did not hinge upon the exhibition of feminine grace and refinement solely through attire coloration.Within the literati class,renowned for their adherence to principles of self-restraint and decorum,there existed an acknowledgment and appreciation of sensory indulgence,manifesting in their vibrant descriptions of women’s clothing.Based on existing evidence,both vibrant and subdued color palettes coexisted in Song Dynasty women’s clothing in their daily life,with no significant stylistic differences compared to the Tang Dynasty.The evolution of fashion in attire coloration represents the convergence of myriad natural and societal determinants,including seasonal climatic conditions,environmental nuances,regional customs,and prevailing ideal social norms.The aforementioned factors wield a more profound influence on the daily lives of commoners than ideal social norms.A disjunction prevailed between the authentic life experiences of the populace and the proclamations espoused by the ruling authorities.The color palette of women’s clothing in their quotidian existence in the Song Dynasty is diverse and ever-changing.In the pursuit of color research,scholars are obligated to earnestly recognize the complexities embedded within historical human experiences.In order to attain a nuanced comprehension of the chromatic nuances embellishing women’s attire within the intricate fabric of historical narratives,researchers are compelled to undertake a meticulous examination of the records chronicling daily life during the Song Dynasty.
作者
银连桐
王小松
YIN Liantong;WANG Xiaosong(School of Art and Archaeology,Zhejiang University,Hangzhou 310000,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2024年第4期105-113,共9页
Journal of Silk
基金
国家社会科学基金重大项目(19ZDA046)。
关键词
色彩
皮尔斯符号学
宋代
女子服饰
社会规范
生活史
color
Pierce’s semiotics
the Song Dynasty
women’s clothing
ideal social norms
life history
