摘要
莨纱绸具有凉爽通透、吸湿排汗等优异的热湿舒适性能。为探析莨纱绸成型过程中织物热湿舒适性能的演变,通过热常数、透气透湿、吸湿/放湿等测试表征对莨纱绸制备过程中各试样的热传递和湿传递性能进行分析。结果表明:莨纱绸成型过程中,织物的各项热传递性能指标无显著变化,表现出与同规格空白织物一致的热传递性能;织物的透气率逐渐降低,透湿量无显著差异,平衡回潮率增加,饱和吸水率下降,润湿性下降但仍具备明显的吸湿排汗性能。砂洗后织物呈疏水性。通过扫描电镜观察织物表面形貌,结果表明形成的涂层结构使织物具有优异的热湿舒适性能,砂洗后织物损伤起绒使织物呈疏水性。该研究为莨纱绸在成型过程中热湿舒适性的演变提供了理论解释,为莨纱绸工业化生产提供参考。
Gambiered Guangdong silk,which involves an eco-friendly processing technique,unique double-sided structure and excellent wearing properties,is an ecological textile dyed with the pigment extracted from Dioscorea Cirrhosa Lour.There have been a lot of reports on the structure and properties of the silk.As a summer cooling fabric,gambiered Guangdong silk has excellent thermal and moisture comfort properties such as coolness,breathability,and moisture permeability.However,the study of the evolution of thermal-moisture comfort during the preparation of gambiered Guangdong silk has not been reported in the literature.Thus,this study attempts to clarify the evolution of the thermal comfort and moisture comfort based on the traditional preparation process of gambiered Guangdong silk.In this experiment,gambiered Guangdong silk was prepared according to the traditional processing technology.Firstly,pigment was extracted from Dioscorea Cirrhosa Lour.Then,the white silk fabric was dyed with the pigment,and exposed to the sun.This dyeing-exposure process was repeated about 20 times.Subsequently,when the pigmentation on the fabric reached a certain thickness,the silk was coated with mud.Finally,because the dyed and mud-coated fabrics were stiffer,fabrics were finished by sand washing.According to the characterization of the thermal performance test,there was negligible alteration in thermal conductivity,thermal diffusivity,specific heat capacity,the Clo value,warmth retention rate and heat transfer coefficient.The result show that the heat transfer index of the fabric remained relatively stable during the preparation process,demonstrating the same excellent heat transfer performance(cooling characteristics)as the blank silk fabrics of the same specification.Furthermore,the moisture comfort of gambiered Guangdong silk was clarified.During the manufacturing processing of gambiered Guangdong silk,the breathability of the fabric gradually decreased.There was no significant difference in moisture permeability.The moisture regain rate increased whereas the saturated water absorption rate decreased.After dyeing and mud coating,the fabric had good wettability and unidirectional water transfer.After sand washing,the fabric was hydrophobic and had no moisture absorption and conductivity.The results show that gambiered Guangdong silk has excellent moisture comfort.Finally,in order to verify that the thermal-moisture comfort of gambiered Guangdong silk is related to the formation of the coating structure of the fabric,the surface morphology of the fabric was observed and analyzed.From the SEM images,it can be observed that the tight coating structure is formed on the surface of the silk,and the pores between the fibers are reduced.That is why gambiered Guangdong silk has outstanding thermal-moisture transfer properties after dyeing and mud coating.Through the analysis of the surface morphology of the silk,it is obvious that the surface of the fabric is damaged and the fibers are broken and fleece after sand washing.That is why the silk has hydrophobic property.This study clarifies the evolution of the thermal-moisture comfort in the preparation process of gambiered Guangdong silk and may pave the path for the standardization of its industrial production.
作者
林柳兴
郭胜南
安盟
马明波
周文龙
LIN Liuxing;GUO Shengnan;AN Meng;MA Mingbo;ZHOU Wenlong(College of Textile Science and Engineering(International Institute of Silk),Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2024年第9期39-46,共8页
Journal of Silk
基金
国家自然科学基金项目(52173064)。
关键词
莨纱绸
薯莨色素
制备过程
热传递
湿传递
舒适性
gambiered Guangdong silk
Dioscorea Cirrhosa pigment
preparation process
thermal transfer
moisture transfer
comfort
