摘要
为传承创新敦煌艺术和中国传统服饰文化,促进新时代语境下传统服饰文化的形象表达与应用,以敦煌莫高窟初唐维摩天女服饰为研究对象,首先采用文献分析法进行历史钩沉,然后结合三重证据法分析其服饰特征和风格,最后基于理论研究进行创新服装设计作品的实践应用。研究表明:在中西融合的历史背景下敦煌莫高窟初唐维摩天女呈现出复杂的服饰文化和鲜明的服饰特征,确立半袖裙襦、羽袖、披领、曲领中单、杂裾垂髾、高髻、麈尾、散花于一体的形象标识系统,形成儒、道、释文化于一身的文化集合,综合各风格要素塑造出丰神俊朗、风度翩翩的天女形象,为指导设计实践提供良引,最终呈现赓续中国传统服饰文化与融合时代创新精神的服装设计作品。
In order to inherit and innovate Dunhuang art and traditional Chinese costume culture,and to promote the image expression and application of traditional costume culture in the new era context,the costume of Vimala Deva in the early Tang dynasty in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes were taken as the research object,and its dress characteristics and style were analyzed by combining literature,image and relics.Finally,based on the theoretical research,the practical application of innovative fashion design works was carried out.The research shows that in the early Tang dynasty in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes,Vimala Deva's artistic achievements are extremely high.Under the historical background of the integration of Chinese and western cultures,Vimala Deva presents complex costume culture and distinctive costume characteristics.The image identification system that integrates Banxiu,Qun and Ru,Yuxiu(feather sleeves),Piling(collar piece),Zhongdan with curved collar,Zajuchuishao,soaring bun,Zhuwei Whisk(elk tail)and scattering flowers forms a cultural collection of Confucianism,Taoism and Buddhism.It combines various style elements to create the image of a goddess who is splendid and graceful,providing a good guide to the creation of innovative fashion design.
作者
苏芮
楚艳
SU Rui;CHU Yan(Academy of Fine Arts,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;School of Business,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)
出处
《毛纺科技》
CAS
北大核心
2024年第9期9-15,共7页
Wool Textile Journal
基金
教育部服务国家特殊需求博士人才培养项目(NHFZ20230012)
国家社科基金艺术学一般项目(19BG102)
国家艺术基金一般项目(2022-A-05-(059)-452)。
关键词
敦煌
莫高窟
维摩天女
服饰文化
创新设计
Dunhuang
Mogao Grottoes
Vimala Deva
costume culture
innovation design
