摘要
设计与生产了天丝棉舒弹丝小提花纬弹织物。络筒工序加强设备和运转操作管理及车间温湿度控制;整经工序中伸缩筘采用分排穿法,加强生产与工艺管理;浆纱工序严格控制烘房温度和浆纱速度,确保整幅经纱张力均匀一致,加强设备检查,控制好浆液的浓度和黏度、浆纱机速度、浆槽温度等,以防止上浆率波动;织造工序中优化引纬工艺,有效防止纬缩疵点的产生。经过工艺优化,该织物的织造效率高达91%,下机一等品率84%,入库一等品率达到98%。经检测,该织物经向拉伸断裂强力为214 N,纬向拉伸断裂强力为197 N,经向撕破强力为12.5 N,纬向撕破强力为10.8 N,经向水洗缩率为2.2%,纬向水洗缩率为0.3%。
Tencel/cotton/shutansi mini-jacquard weft elastic fabric is designed and produced. In winding process, machine and operational management, and controlling workshop temperature and humidity are enhanced. In warping process, expansion reed adopted points tees to strengthen the production and process management. In sizing process, oven temperature and sizing speed should be strictly controlled to make sure the whole warp tension uniform. The equipment inspection should be enhanced, and the concentration and viscosity of size, speed and temperature should be controlled in order to prevent the slurry rate fluctuation. In weaving process, the weft insertion process is optimized to prevent looped weft effectively. Through process optimization, the loom efficiency can reach 91%. The first grade percentage before cloth repairing can reach 84%. The first grade percentage put in storage can reach 98%. The test results show that the warp tensile strength of the fabric is 214 N, weft tensile strength is 197 N, warp tear strength is 12.5 N, weft tear strength is 10.8 N, the washing shrinkage in warp is 2.2%, and the washing shrinkage in weft is 0.3%.
作者
马顺彬
MA Shunbin(Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Nantong 226007,China)
出处
《上海纺织科技》
北大核心
2019年第3期50-52,共3页
Shanghai Textile Science & Technology
基金
2017年度江苏高校"青蓝工程"资助项目[苏教师(2017)15号]
江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心[苏政办2014(22)号]
江苏省品牌专业(PPZY2015A093)
关键词
天丝
棉
纬弹织物
提花织物
织造工艺
质量控制
Tencel
cotton
weft elastic fabric
jacquard fabric
weaving process
quality control
