Based on the full water-wave equation,a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper.For special case of slope angle β=π/2,this so...Based on the full water-wave equation,a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper.For special case of slope angle β=π/2,this solution can reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline.Interactions between two edge waves including progressive,standing and partially reflected standing waves are also discussed.The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves are also given.The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated,and the corresponding theoretical autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and the second orders are derived.The boundary conditions for the determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested,that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory.Finally some computation results are demonstrated.展开更多
Based on the theoretical high-order model with a dissipative term for non-linear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth, a 3-D mathematical model of non-linear wave propagation is presented. The model, which ca...Based on the theoretical high-order model with a dissipative term for non-linear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth, a 3-D mathematical model of non-linear wave propagation is presented. The model, which can be used to calculate thewave particle velocity and wave pressure, is suitable to the complicated topography whose relative depth (d/λ0, ratio of the characteristic water depth to the characteristic wavelength in deep-water) is equal to or smaller than one. The governing equations are discretized with the improved 2-D Crank-Nicolson method in which the first-order derivatives are corrected by Taylor series expansion, .and the general boundary conditions with an arbitrary reflection coefficient and phase shift are adopted in the model. The surface elevation, horizontal and vertical velocity components and wave pressure of standing waves are numerically calculated. The results show that the numerical model can effectively simulate the complicated standing waves, and the general boundary conditions possess good adaptability.展开更多
文摘Based on the full water-wave equation,a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper.For special case of slope angle β=π/2,this solution can reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline.Interactions between two edge waves including progressive,standing and partially reflected standing waves are also discussed.The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves are also given.The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated,and the corresponding theoretical autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and the second orders are derived.The boundary conditions for the determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested,that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory.Finally some computation results are demonstrated.
基金This subject was partly supported by the National Excellent Youth Foundation of China (Grant No. 49825161)
文摘Based on the theoretical high-order model with a dissipative term for non-linear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth, a 3-D mathematical model of non-linear wave propagation is presented. The model, which can be used to calculate thewave particle velocity and wave pressure, is suitable to the complicated topography whose relative depth (d/λ0, ratio of the characteristic water depth to the characteristic wavelength in deep-water) is equal to or smaller than one. The governing equations are discretized with the improved 2-D Crank-Nicolson method in which the first-order derivatives are corrected by Taylor series expansion, .and the general boundary conditions with an arbitrary reflection coefficient and phase shift are adopted in the model. The surface elevation, horizontal and vertical velocity components and wave pressure of standing waves are numerically calculated. The results show that the numerical model can effectively simulate the complicated standing waves, and the general boundary conditions possess good adaptability.
