This paper discusses the effect of berm width and elevation of composite slope on irregular wave run-up. Based on the data obtained from model tests, the formula and distribution of irregular wave run-up on composite ...This paper discusses the effect of berm width and elevation of composite slope on irregular wave run-up. Based on the data obtained from model tests, the formula and distribution of irregular wave run-up on composite slope are derived. The changing of wind speed, width and elevation of the berm are considered comprehensively. The wave run-up with various exceedance probability can be es-timated utilizing the distribution curves of irregular wave run-up.展开更多
An impedance analytical method （IAM） is developed to study the interaction of plane water wave with a slotted-wall caisson breakwater. The non-linear boundary condition at the slotted-wall is expressed in terms of f...An impedance analytical method （IAM） is developed to study the interaction of plane water wave with a slotted-wall caisson breakwater. The non-linear boundary condition at the slotted-wall is expressed in terms of flow resistance. A set of algebraic expressions are obtained for free surface elevation inside and outside chamber, and reflection coefficient. The prediction of the reflection coefficients shows that the relative widths of the chamber inducing the minimum reflection coefficient for a slotted-wall caisson breakwater are in a range of 0.10～0.20, which are smaller than that （0.15～0.25） for a perforated-wall caisson breakwater. The reflection coefficients and free surface elevation obtained by the present model are compared with that of laboratory experiments carried out by previous researchers.展开更多
In this paper,the focused wave groups with different parameters and their actions on a vertical cylinder are experimentally studied. The harmonic wave characteristics of the focusing waves are analyzed by the addition...In this paper,the focused wave groups with different parameters and their actions on a vertical cylinder are experimentally studied. The harmonic wave characteristics of the focusing waves are analyzed by the addition and subtraction of the crest and trough focusing waves. The analyzed results show that higher order harmonics can be generated because of the interaction of component waves. Nonlinearity increases with the inputted wave amplitude and the frequency width increment. Further, the wave run-up around the vertical circular cylinder is experimentally studied. It increases with the wave steepness and the relative cylinder diameter increase. However, the variations of wave run-up around the circular cylinder are different. The researches provide a reference for further numerical studies.展开更多
This paper describes a plane regular wave interaction with a combined cylinder which consists of a solid inner column and a coaxial perforated outer cylinder. The outer perforated surface is a thin porous cylinder wit...This paper describes a plane regular wave interaction with a combined cylinder which consists of a solid inner column and a coaxial perforated outer cylinder. The outer perforated surface is a thin porous cylinder with an annular gap between it and the inner cylinder. The non-linear boundary condition at the perforated wall is a prime focus in the study; energy dissipation at the perforated wall occurs through the resistance to the fluid across the perforated wall. Explicit analytical formulae are presented to calculate the wave run-up on the outer and inner surfaces of the perforated cylinder and the surface of the inner column. The theoretical results of the wave run-up are compared with previous experimental data. Numerical results have also been obtained： when the ratio of the annular gap between the two cylinders to incident wavelength （b-a）/L≤0. 1, the wave run-up on the inner surface of the perforated cylinder and the surface of inner column can partially or completely exceed the incident wave height.展开更多
Submerged barriers are constructed in coastal zones for shoreline or harbor protection or to prevent the beach erosion. In the present study, the wave run-up on a vertical seawall protected by a submerged barrier is a...Submerged barriers are constructed in coastal zones for shoreline or harbor protection or to prevent the beach erosion. In the present study, the wave run-up on a vertical seawall protected by a submerged barrier is analyzed. The physical configurations include a rigid barrier and a long channel of finite depth. For linear water waves, by matching the velocity along the barrier and along the gap, the systems of linear equations about the velocity potentials are obtained. The wave rim-up is further analyzed for various settings of barrier height and distance between the barrier and the wall, i.e. the chamber length. For nonlinear waves and random sea waves, a numerical model is extended to investigate the effect parameters of the barrier on the wave rim-up against the seawall. Not only the numerical simulations, but also the analytical results illustrate that the wave run-up on the seawall depends very much on the distance between the barrier and the vertical seawall.展开更多
The run-up on offshore structures induced by the steep regular wave is a highly nonlinear flow with a free surface. This article focuses on the investigation of the steep regular wave run-up on a single vertical cylin...The run-up on offshore structures induced by the steep regular wave is a highly nonlinear flow with a free surface. This article focuses on the investigation of the steep regular wave run-up on a single vertical cylinder by solving the Navier-Stokes equations. A numerical wave tank is established based on the open-source package to simulate the wave scattering induced by a vertical cylinder. The VOF method is applied to capture the large deformation and breaking of the free surface. The numerical model is validated by experimental results. The relative wave run-ups on the front face and the back face along the centerline of a cylinder are analyzed. The changes of the relative run-ups with the wave steepness, the relative diameter and the relative depth are studied. It is found that the relative run-ups on the front face and the back face of the cylinder depend mainly on the wave steepness and the relative diameter, while the dependence on the relative depth is weak. The empirical formulae are proposed to calculate the relative run-ups in terms of the wave steepness of incident regular waves and the relative diameter of a cylinder.展开更多
The prediction of solitary wave run-up has important practical significance in coastal and ocean engineering, but the calculation precision is limited in the existing models. For improving the calculation precision, a...The prediction of solitary wave run-up has important practical significance in coastal and ocean engineering, but the calculation precision is limited in the existing models. For improving the calculation precision, a solitary wave run-up calculation model was established based on artificial neural networks in this study. A back-propagation （BP） network with one hidden layer was adopted and modified with the additional momentum method and the auto-adjusting learning factor. The model was applied to calculation of solitary wave run-up. The correlation coefficients between the neural network model results and the experimental values was 0.996 5. By comparison with the correlation coefficient of 0.963 5, between the Synolakis formula calculation results and the experimental values, it is concluded that the neural network model is an effective method for calculation and analysis of solitary wave ran-up.展开更多
A series of hydraulic model tests are carried out to investigate random wave run-up and overtopping on smooth, impermeable single slope and composite slope. Based on the analysis of the influences of wave steepness, s...A series of hydraulic model tests are carried out to investigate random wave run-up and overtopping on smooth, impermeable single slope and composite slope. Based on the analysis of the influences of wave steepness, structure slope, incident wave angle, width of the berm and water depth on the berm and the wave run-up, empirical formulas for wave run-up on dike are proposed. Moreover, empirical formula on estimating the wave run-up on composite slope with multiple berms is presented for practical application of complex dike cross-section. The present study shows that the influence factors for wave overtopping are almost the same as those for wave run-up and the trend of the wave overtopping variation with main influence parameters is also similar to that for wave run-up. The trend of the wave overtopping variations can be well described by two main factors, i.e. the wave run-up and the crest freeboard of the structure. A new prediction method for wave overtopping is proposed for random waves. The proposed prediction formulas are applied to case study of over forty cases and the results show that the prediction methods are good enough for practical design purposes.展开更多
This paper. details experiments undertaken in the UK Coastal Research Facility (CRF)at Hy draulies Research (HR), Wallingford, on transformation and run-up of wave trains. The purpose of these experiments is to provid...This paper. details experiments undertaken in the UK Coastal Research Facility (CRF)at Hy draulies Research (HR), Wallingford, on transformation and run-up of wave trains. The purpose of these experiments is to provide verification data for numerical models of wave transformation in shoaling. surf and swash zones. This is the kind of data ih:lt flume experiments are unable to provide, and is collected in the highly controlled environment of CRF where extrinsic factors present in the field are not an issue. The experiments concerning wave trains are undertaken by use of existing wave generation software, and the run-up measurements are made with large experimental run-up gauges.展开更多
Ship waves are observed with wave-generating techniques by way of simulating express liners in the Zhujiang Delta.The analog test study of ship waves is conducted in a wave flume and a wave basin respectively. Thus, d...Ship waves are observed with wave-generating techniques by way of simulating express liners in the Zhujiang Delta.The analog test study of ship waves is conducted in a wave flume and a wave basin respectively. Thus, different wave elements and different incident angles of ship waves are decided; so are different slopes of protection, the plafform, width of plafform, and the influence over the ship wave run-up on protection from armor coat structure. The empirical relation-展开更多
-The effect of wave group on wave run-up on a slope dike is mainly discussed in this paper. Two simulating methods of wave group and their applications in laboratory are introduced. Synthesizing the research results o...-The effect of wave group on wave run-up on a slope dike is mainly discussed in this paper. Two simulating methods of wave group and their applications in laboratory are introduced. Synthesizing the research results of wave run-up on a slope dike, the effect of wave group on wave run-up on a slope dike in coastal protection engineering is studied as the main point.展开更多
The pressure load at a vertical barrier caused by extreme wave run-up is analysed numerically, using the conformal mapping method to solve the two-dimensional free surface Euler equations in a pseudospectral model. Pr...The pressure load at a vertical barrier caused by extreme wave run-up is analysed numerically, using the conformal mapping method to solve the two-dimensional free surface Euler equations in a pseudospectral model. Previously this problem has been examined in the case of a flat-bottomed geometry. Here,the model is extended to consider a varying bathymetry. Numerical experiments show that an increasing step-like bottom profile may enhance the extreme run-up of long waves but result in a reduced pressure load.展开更多
Based on a set of fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations up to the order of O（μ^2, ε^3μ^2） （where ε is the ratio of wave amplitude to water depth and ,μ is the ratio of water depth to wave length） a numerical w...Based on a set of fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations up to the order of O（μ^2, ε^3μ^2） （where ε is the ratio of wave amplitude to water depth and ,μ is the ratio of water depth to wave length） a numerical wave model is formulated. The model＇s linear dispersion is acceptably accurate to μ ≌ 1.0, which is confirmed by comparisons between the simulat- ed and measured time series of the regular waves propagating on a submerged bar. The moving shoreline is treated numer- ically by replacing the solid beach with a permeable beach. Run-up of nonbreaking waves is verified against the analytical solution for nonlinear shallow water waves. The inclusion of wave breaking is fulfilled by introducing an eddy term in the momentum equation to serve as the breaking wave force term to dissipate wave energy in the surf zone. The model is applied to cross-shore motions of regular waves including various types of breaking on plane sloping beaches. Comparisons of the model test results comprising spatial distribution of wave height and mean water level with experimental data are presented.展开更多
文摘This paper discusses the effect of berm width and elevation of composite slope on irregular wave run-up. Based on the data obtained from model tests, the formula and distribution of irregular wave run-up on composite slope are derived. The changing of wind speed, width and elevation of the berm are considered comprehensively. The wave run-up with various exceedance probability can be es-timated utilizing the distribution curves of irregular wave run-up.
文摘An impedance analytical method （IAM） is developed to study the interaction of plane water wave with a slotted-wall caisson breakwater. The non-linear boundary condition at the slotted-wall is expressed in terms of flow resistance. A set of algebraic expressions are obtained for free surface elevation inside and outside chamber, and reflection coefficient. The prediction of the reflection coefficients shows that the relative widths of the chamber inducing the minimum reflection coefficient for a slotted-wall caisson breakwater are in a range of 0.10～0.20, which are smaller than that （0.15～0.25） for a perforated-wall caisson breakwater. The reflection coefficients and free surface elevation obtained by the present model are compared with that of laboratory experiments carried out by previous researchers.
基金supported bythe National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos.50379002 and 50921001)the New Century Excellent Talents in University (Grant No.NCET-05-0282)
文摘In this paper,the focused wave groups with different parameters and their actions on a vertical cylinder are experimentally studied. The harmonic wave characteristics of the focusing waves are analyzed by the addition and subtraction of the crest and trough focusing waves. The analyzed results show that higher order harmonics can be generated because of the interaction of component waves. Nonlinearity increases with the inputted wave amplitude and the frequency width increment. Further, the wave run-up around the vertical circular cylinder is experimentally studied. It increases with the wave steepness and the relative cylinder diameter increase. However, the variations of wave run-up around the circular cylinder are different. The researches provide a reference for further numerical studies.
文摘This paper describes a plane regular wave interaction with a combined cylinder which consists of a solid inner column and a coaxial perforated outer cylinder. The outer perforated surface is a thin porous cylinder with an annular gap between it and the inner cylinder. The non-linear boundary condition at the perforated wall is a prime focus in the study; energy dissipation at the perforated wall occurs through the resistance to the fluid across the perforated wall. Explicit analytical formulae are presented to calculate the wave run-up on the outer and inner surfaces of the perforated cylinder and the surface of the inner column. The theoretical results of the wave run-up are compared with previous experimental data. Numerical results have also been obtained： when the ratio of the annular gap between the two cylinders to incident wavelength （b-a）/L≤0. 1, the wave run-up on the inner surface of the perforated cylinder and the surface of inner column can partially or completely exceed the incident wave height.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No.10702042)the Scientific Reseasch Startup Foundation of Shanghai Jiao Tong University (Grant No. A2823B) the Shanghai Leading Academic Discipline Project (Grant No.B206)
文摘Submerged barriers are constructed in coastal zones for shoreline or harbor protection or to prevent the beach erosion. In the present study, the wave run-up on a vertical seawall protected by a submerged barrier is analyzed. The physical configurations include a rigid barrier and a long channel of finite depth. For linear water waves, by matching the velocity along the barrier and along the gap, the systems of linear equations about the velocity potentials are obtained. The wave rim-up is further analyzed for various settings of barrier height and distance between the barrier and the wall, i.e. the chamber length. For nonlinear waves and random sea waves, a numerical model is extended to investigate the effect parameters of the barrier on the wave rim-up against the seawall. Not only the numerical simulations, but also the analytical results illustrate that the wave run-up on the seawall depends very much on the distance between the barrier and the vertical seawall.
基金financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.11632012 and 41861144024)the National Basic Research Program of China(973 Program,Grant No.2014CB046203)
文摘The run-up on offshore structures induced by the steep regular wave is a highly nonlinear flow with a free surface. This article focuses on the investigation of the steep regular wave run-up on a single vertical cylinder by solving the Navier-Stokes equations. A numerical wave tank is established based on the open-source package to simulate the wave scattering induced by a vertical cylinder. The VOF method is applied to capture the large deformation and breaking of the free surface. The numerical model is validated by experimental results. The relative wave run-ups on the front face and the back face along the centerline of a cylinder are analyzed. The changes of the relative run-ups with the wave steepness, the relative diameter and the relative depth are studied. It is found that the relative run-ups on the front face and the back face of the cylinder depend mainly on the wave steepness and the relative diameter, while the dependence on the relative depth is weak. The empirical formulae are proposed to calculate the relative run-ups in terms of the wave steepness of incident regular waves and the relative diameter of a cylinder.
基金supported by State Key Development Program of Basic Research of China (Grant No.2010CB429001)
文摘The prediction of solitary wave run-up has important practical significance in coastal and ocean engineering, but the calculation precision is limited in the existing models. For improving the calculation precision, a solitary wave run-up calculation model was established based on artificial neural networks in this study. A back-propagation （BP） network with one hidden layer was adopted and modified with the additional momentum method and the auto-adjusting learning factor. The model was applied to calculation of solitary wave run-up. The correlation coefficients between the neural network model results and the experimental values was 0.996 5. By comparison with the correlation coefficient of 0.963 5, between the Synolakis formula calculation results and the experimental values, it is concluded that the neural network model is an effective method for calculation and analysis of solitary wave ran-up.
文摘A series of hydraulic model tests are carried out to investigate random wave run-up and overtopping on smooth, impermeable single slope and composite slope. Based on the analysis of the influences of wave steepness, structure slope, incident wave angle, width of the berm and water depth on the berm and the wave run-up, empirical formulas for wave run-up on dike are proposed. Moreover, empirical formula on estimating the wave run-up on composite slope with multiple berms is presented for practical application of complex dike cross-section. The present study shows that the influence factors for wave overtopping are almost the same as those for wave run-up and the trend of the wave overtopping variation with main influence parameters is also similar to that for wave run-up. The trend of the wave overtopping variations can be well described by two main factors, i.e. the wave run-up and the crest freeboard of the structure. A new prediction method for wave overtopping is proposed for random waves. The proposed prediction formulas are applied to case study of over forty cases and the results show that the prediction methods are good enough for practical design purposes.
基金This project was supported by the Flood and Coastal Defense Commission of UK(FD0204)the National Natural Science Foundation of China(59809001)
文摘This paper. details experiments undertaken in the UK Coastal Research Facility (CRF)at Hy draulies Research (HR), Wallingford, on transformation and run-up of wave trains. The purpose of these experiments is to provide verification data for numerical models of wave transformation in shoaling. surf and swash zones. This is the kind of data ih:lt flume experiments are unable to provide, and is collected in the highly controlled environment of CRF where extrinsic factors present in the field are not an issue. The experiments concerning wave trains are undertaken by use of existing wave generation software, and the run-up measurements are made with large experimental run-up gauges.
文摘Ship waves are observed with wave-generating techniques by way of simulating express liners in the Zhujiang Delta.The analog test study of ship waves is conducted in a wave flume and a wave basin respectively. Thus, different wave elements and different incident angles of ship waves are decided; so are different slopes of protection, the plafform, width of plafform, and the influence over the ship wave run-up on protection from armor coat structure. The empirical relation-
文摘-The effect of wave group on wave run-up on a slope dike is mainly discussed in this paper. Two simulating methods of wave group and their applications in laboratory are introduced. Synthesizing the research results of wave run-up on a slope dike, the effect of wave group on wave run-up on a slope dike in coastal protection engineering is studied as the main point.
基金supported by the European Research Council (ERC) under the research project ERC-2011-Ad G 290562MULTIWAVEthe Science Foundation Ireland (SFI) under grant number SFI/12/ERC/E2227the research project ‘‘Understanding Extreme Nearshore Wave Events through Studies of Coastal Boulder Transport’’ funded through the US-Ireland R & D Programme (14/US/E3111 and NSF 1529756)
文摘The pressure load at a vertical barrier caused by extreme wave run-up is analysed numerically, using the conformal mapping method to solve the two-dimensional free surface Euler equations in a pseudospectral model. Previously this problem has been examined in the case of a flat-bottomed geometry. Here,the model is extended to consider a varying bathymetry. Numerical experiments show that an increasing step-like bottom profile may enhance the extreme run-up of long waves but result in a reduced pressure load.
基金This work was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No.50679010)
文摘Based on a set of fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations up to the order of O（μ^2, ε^3μ^2） （where ε is the ratio of wave amplitude to water depth and ,μ is the ratio of water depth to wave length） a numerical wave model is formulated. The model＇s linear dispersion is acceptably accurate to μ ≌ 1.0, which is confirmed by comparisons between the simulat- ed and measured time series of the regular waves propagating on a submerged bar. The moving shoreline is treated numer- ically by replacing the solid beach with a permeable beach. Run-up of nonbreaking waves is verified against the analytical solution for nonlinear shallow water waves. The inclusion of wave breaking is fulfilled by introducing an eddy term in the momentum equation to serve as the breaking wave force term to dissipate wave energy in the surf zone. The model is applied to cross-shore motions of regular waves including various types of breaking on plane sloping beaches. Comparisons of the model test results comprising spatial distribution of wave height and mean water level with experimental data are presented.
