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Study on Measurement Methods of Multi-Directional Waves—Wave Gauge Array Method 被引量:5
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作者 Yu Yuxiu Liu Shuxue Prof. Department of Civil Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian Assistant Researcher, Department of Civil Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI 1992年第2期233-242,共10页
Measuring multi-directional waves with the wave gauge array is one of the fundamental and easily realised methods. In this paper, the wave gauge array is described and the effects of the gauge spacing, the array orien... Measuring multi-directional waves with the wave gauge array is one of the fundamental and easily realised methods. In this paper, the wave gauge array is described and the effects of the gauge spacing, the array orientations, etc. of the three array arrangements, i. e., linear array, T-type array and pentagon array, on the resolution of the directional spreading of waves, are investigated experimentally. This study can be used as a reference in the experimental study and the field measurement of directional waves. 展开更多
关键词 multi-directional waves measurement method directional spectrum wave gauge array
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Oblique and Multi-Directional Random Wave Loads on Vertical Breakwaters 被引量:3
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作者 俞聿修 李本霞 张宁川 《海洋工程:英文版》 2003年第2期189-202,共14页
Extensive 3-D model tests have been performed to study the effects of wave obliquity and multi-directionality on the wave loads acting on vertical breakwaters. The variation of horizontal and uplift forces acting on a... Extensive 3-D model tests have been performed to study the effects of wave obliquity and multi-directionality on the wave loads acting on vertical breakwaters. The variation of horizontal and uplift forces acting on an unit length of a breakwater with wave direction, the longitudinal distribution of wave forces, as well as the longitudinal load reduction are analyzed. Some empirical formulae of the longitudinal distribution coefficient and the longitudinal load reduction factor are presented for practical use. 展开更多
关键词 vertical breakwaters oblique wave multi-directional random wave longitudinal distribution wave forces longitudinal load reduction
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Three-Dimensional Model Test for Port Engineering with Multi-Directional Waves 被引量:1
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作者 Yu Yuxiu Liu Shuxue Professor, State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology (DUT), Dalian 116024 Assistant Researcher, State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, DUT, Dalian 116024 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI 1994年第1期51-66,共16页
-The necessity of using irregular waves, especially multi- directional waves to conduct three-dimensional model tests for port engineering and the test method are described in this paper through an example of model te... -The necessity of using irregular waves, especially multi- directional waves to conduct three-dimensional model tests for port engineering and the test method are described in this paper through an example of model test for a port. The test results show that a deep navigation channel has a large effect on the waves in front of the breakwater near the port entrance and on the wave condition in the port. 展开更多
关键词 port engineering three-dimensional model test irregular waves multi-directional waves
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Ray path of head waves with irregular interfaces 被引量:1
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作者 周红 陈晓非 《Applied Geophysics》 SCIE CSCD 2010年第1期66-73,100,共9页
Head waves are usually considered to be the refracted waves propagating along flat interfaces with an underlying higher velocity.However,the path that the rays travel along in media with irregular interfaces is not cl... Head waves are usually considered to be the refracted waves propagating along flat interfaces with an underlying higher velocity.However,the path that the rays travel along in media with irregular interfaces is not clear.Here we study the problem by simulation using a new approach of the spectral-element method with some overlapped elements(SEMO) that can accurately evaluate waves traveling along an irregular interface.Consequently,the head waves are separated from interface waves by a time window.Thus,their energy and arrival time changes can be analyzed independently.These analyses demonstrate that,contrary to the case for head waves propagating along a flat interface,there are two mechanisms for head waves traveling along an irregular interface:a refraction mechanism and transmission mechanism.That is,the head waves may be refracted waves propagating along the interface or transmitted waves induced by the waves propagating in the higher-velocity media.Such knowledge will be helpful in constructing a more accurate inversion method,such as head wave travel-time tomography,and in obtaining a more accurate model of subsurface structure which is very important for understanding the formation mechanism of some special areas,such as the Tibetan Plateau. 展开更多
关键词 head waves irregular interface refracted waves transmitted waves ray path
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An Irregular Wave Generating Approach Based on naoe-FOAM-SJTU Solver 被引量:18
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作者 沈志荣 万德成 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI CSCD 2016年第2期177-192,共16页
In this paper,a wave generating approach for long-crest irregular waves in a numerical tank by our in-house solver naoe-FOAM-SJTU is presented.The naoe-FOAM-SJTU solver is developed using an open source tool kit,Open ... In this paper,a wave generating approach for long-crest irregular waves in a numerical tank by our in-house solver naoe-FOAM-SJTU is presented.The naoe-FOAM-SJTU solver is developed using an open source tool kit,Open FOAM.Reynolds-averaged Navier?Stokes(RANS) equations are chosen as governing equations and the volume of fluid(VOF) is employed to capture the two phases interface.Incoming wave group is generated by imposing the boundary conditions of the tank inlet.A spectrum based correction procedure is developed to make the measured spectrum approaching to the target spectrum.This procedure can automatically adjust the wave generation signal based on the measured wave elevation by wave height probe in numerical wave tank.After 3 to 4 iterations,the measured spectrum agrees well with the target one.In order to validate this method,several wave spectra are chosen and validated in the numerical wave tank,with comparison between the final measured and target spectra.In order to investigate a practical situation,a modified Wigley hull is placed in the wave tank with incoming irregular waves.The wave-induced heave and pitch motions are treated by Fourier analysis to obtain motion responses,showing good agreements with the measurements. 展开更多
关键词 irregular wave wave spectrum RANS VOF OPENFOAM naoe-FOAM-SJTU solver
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Magnetic-field-assisted triboelectric nanogenerator for harvesting multi-directional wave energy
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作者 Mengru Ding Jianlong Wang +5 位作者 Da Zhao Hengyu Li Xiaojun Cheng Jianming Wen Zhong Lin Wang Tinghai Cheng 《Nano Research》 SCIE EI CSCD 2024年第8期7144-7152,共9页
Ocean wave energy is a significant and promising source of renewable energy.However,the energy harvesting is challenging due to the multi-directional nature of waves.This paper proposes a magnetic-field-assisted tribo... Ocean wave energy is a significant and promising source of renewable energy.However,the energy harvesting is challenging due to the multi-directional nature of waves.This paper proposes a magnetic-field-assisted triboelectric nanogenerator(MFATENG)for harvesting multi-directional wave energy.By incorporating a magnetic field,the planar motion of the pendulum is converted into spatial motion,increasing the triggering of multilayered TENG(M-TENG)and enhancing the output energy of the MFA-TENG.Experimental results demonstrate that the output energy of the MFA-TENG is increased by 73%by utilizing the magnetic field.Moreover,a spring model based on the origami-structured M-TENG is established to analyze the effect of different equivalent stiffnesses on the performance of the M-TENG,aiming to obtain optimal output performance.The results showcase the impressive output performance of the M-TENG,generating outputs of 250 V,18μA,and 255 nC.Furthermore,the proposed MFA-TENG effectively harvests multi-directional wave energy under water-wave driven conditions.This study significantly enhances the ability of the MFA-TENG to harvest multi-directional wave energy and presents a promising approach for self-powered marine monitoring in the future. 展开更多
关键词 triboelectric nanogenerator magnetic-field-assisted spring model multi-directional wave energy
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Experimental Researches on Reflective and Transmitting Performances of Quarter Circular Breakwater Under Regular and Irregular Waves 被引量:9
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作者 史艳娇 吴米玲 +1 位作者 蒋学炼 李炎保 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI 2011年第3期469-478,共10页
A series of regular and irregular wave experiments are conducted to study the reflective and transmitting performances of quarter circular breakwater (QCB) in comparison with those of semi-circular breakwater (SCB... A series of regular and irregular wave experiments are conducted to study the reflective and transmitting performances of quarter circular breakwater (QCB) in comparison with those of semi-circular breakwater (SCB). Based on regular wave tests, the reflection and transmission characteristics of QCB are analyzed and a few influencing factors are investigated. Then, the wave energy dissipation as wave passing over the breakwater is discussed based on the hydraulic coefficients of QCB and SCB. In irregular wave experiments, the reflection coefficients of QCB and their spectrums are studied. Finally, the comparisons between the experimental results and numerical simulations for QCB under regular and irregular wave conditions are presented. 展开更多
关键词 quarter circular breakwater regular wave irregular wave reflection transmission
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Effect of Berm Width and Elevation on Irregular Wave Run-Up 被引量:7
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作者 Chen Guoping , Yu Kuang-ming and Zhang Jiachang Assistant Engineer, River and Harbour Department, Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute, NanjingProf. and Senior Engineer, River and Harbour Department, Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute, Nanjing Senior Engineer, River and Harbour Department, Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute, Nanjing 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI 1991年第4期441-452,共12页
This paper discusses the effect of berm width and elevation of composite slope on irregular wave run-up. Based on the data obtained from model tests, the formula and distribution of irregular wave run-up on composite ... This paper discusses the effect of berm width and elevation of composite slope on irregular wave run-up. Based on the data obtained from model tests, the formula and distribution of irregular wave run-up on composite slope are derived. The changing of wind speed, width and elevation of the berm are considered comprehensively. The wave run-up with various exceedance probability can be es-timated utilizing the distribution curves of irregular wave run-up. 展开更多
关键词 berm width berm elevation irregular wave run-up composite slope
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Numerical Simulation of Irregular Wave Overtopping Against A Smooth Sea Dike 被引量:5
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作者 郭晓宇 王本龙 刘桦 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI 2012年第1期153-166,共14页
Based on the filtered Navier-Stokes equations and Smagorinsky turbulence model, a numerical wave flume is developed to investigate the overtopping process of irregular waves over smooth sea dikes. Simulations of fully... Based on the filtered Navier-Stokes equations and Smagorinsky turbulence model, a numerical wave flume is developed to investigate the overtopping process of irregular waves over smooth sea dikes. Simulations of fully nonlinear standing wave and regular wave's run-up on a sea dike are carried out to validate the implementation of the numerical wave flume with wave generation and absorbing modules. To model stationary ergodic stochastic processes, several cases with different random seeds are computed for each specified irregular wave spectrum. It turns out that the statistical mean overtopping discharge shows good agreement with empirical formulas, other numerical results and experimental data. 展开更多
关键词 overtopping discharge irregular wave numerical wave flume Navier-Stokes equations
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An Irregular Wave Maker of Active Absorption with VOF Method 被引量:4
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作者 任冰 李雪临 王永学 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI 2008年第4期623-634,共12页
A numerical irregular wave flume with active absorption of re-reflected waves is simulated by use of volume of fluid (VOF) method. An active 'absorbing wave-maker based on linear wave theory is set on the left boun... A numerical irregular wave flume with active absorption of re-reflected waves is simulated by use of volume of fluid (VOF) method. An active 'absorbing wave-maker based on linear wave theory is set on the left boundary of the wave flume. The progressive waves and the absorbing waves are generated simultaneously at the active wave generating-absorbing boundary. The absorbing waves are generated to eliminate the waves coming back to the generating boundary due to reflection from the outflow boundary and the structures. SIRW method proposed by Frigaard and Brorsen (1995) is used to separate the incident waves and reflected waves. The digital filters are designed based on the surface elevation signals of the two wave gauges. The corrected velocity of the wave-maker paddle is the output from the digital filter in real time. The numerical results of regular and irregular waves by the active absorbing-generating boundary are compared with the numerical results by the ordinary generating boundary to verify the performance of the active absorbing-generator boundary. The differences between the initial incident waves and the estimated incident waves are analyzed. 展开更多
关键词 VOF irregular wave SIRW method active absorbing wave-maker
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Experimental Study on Local Scour Around A Large Circular Cylinder Under Irregular Waves 被引量:6
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作者 周益人 陈国平 《海洋工程:英文版》 EI 2004年第2期245-256,共12页
A series of physical model tests are conducted for local scour around a circular cylinder of a relatively large diameter (0 15< D/L <0.5) under the action of irregular waves. The laws of change of the topogra... A series of physical model tests are conducted for local scour around a circular cylinder of a relatively large diameter (0 15< D/L <0.5) under the action of irregular waves. The laws of change of the topography around the cylinder are systematically studied. The effects of wave height, wave period, water depth, sediment grain size and cylinder diameter are taken into account. The mechanism of formation of the topography around the cylinder is analyzed. A detailed analysis is given to bed sediment grain size, and it is considered that the depth of scour around the cylinder under wave action is not inversely proportional to the sediment grain diameter. On such a basis, an equation is proposed for calculation of the maximum depth of scour around a cylinder as well as its position under the action of irregular waves. 展开更多
关键词 large circular cylinder local scour irregular waves
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Experimental Investigation of Irregular Wave Uplift Force on Deck of Exposed High-Pile Jetties 被引量:3
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作者 陈国平 孟艳秋 严士常 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI 2010年第1期67-78,共12页
A laboratory setup was developed to investigate irregular wave uplift loads on exposed high-pile jetties. It is shown that the dimensionless uplift load increases to the maximum with an increasing relative clearance a... A laboratory setup was developed to investigate irregular wave uplift loads on exposed high-pile jetties. It is shown that the dimensionless uplift load increases to the maximum with an increasing relative clearance and then decreases. The relative clearance corresponding to the peak force is linked to a range from 0.4 to 0.8. When the relative clearance exceeds a certain value, the wave can not reach the underside of the deck and the force becomes zero. Distinct trends of dimensionless force with a relative width of deck show that the force tends to decrease as the relative deck width increases, and then the decrease slows down after the relative deck width increases or decreases to a certain value. The pressure distribution length associated with the maximum uplift force is equivalent to the wave contact width x. When x is larger than the width of deck B, it is taken as B. The statistical distribution of loads obeys the Weibull distribution. The results from the analyses of the real data suggest a new dimensionless prediction model on wave-in-deck uplift loads and the conversion ratio between wave loads at different exceedance probabilities. A comparison is made between the new prediction model and the existing widely used three prediction models. These results are used as useful references for structural design of the jetty. 展开更多
关键词 irregular wave uplift force high-pile jetty
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Parametric Resonance Analyses for Spar Platform in Irregular Waves 被引量:2
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作者 YANG He-zhen XU Pei-ji 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI CSCD 2018年第2期236-244,共9页
The parametric instability of a spar platform in irregular waves is analyzed. Parametric resonance is a phenomenon that may occur when a mechanical system parameter varies over time. When it occurs, a spar platform wi... The parametric instability of a spar platform in irregular waves is analyzed. Parametric resonance is a phenomenon that may occur when a mechanical system parameter varies over time. When it occurs, a spar platform will have excessive pitch motion and may capsize. Therefore, avoiding parametric resonance is an important design requirement. The traditional methodology includes only a prediction of the Mathieu stability with harmonic excitation in regular waves. However, real sea conditions are irregular, and it has been observed that parametric resonance also occurs in non-harmonic excitations. Thus, it is imperative to predict the parametric resonance of a spar platform in irregular waves. A Hill equation is derived in this work, which can be used to analyze the parametric resonance under multi-frequency excitations. The derived Hill equation for predicting the instability of a spar can include non-harmonic excitation and random phases. The stability charts for multi-frequency excitation in irregular waves are given and compared with that for single frequency excitation in regular waves. Simulations of the pitch dynamic responses are carried out to check the stability. Three-dimensional stability charts with various damping coefficients for irregular waves are also investigated. The results show that the stability property in irregular waves has notable differences compared with that in case of regular waves. In addition, using the Hill equation to obtain the stability chart is an effective method to predict the parametric instability of spar platforms. Moreover, some suggestions for designing spar platforms to avoid parametric resonance are presented, such as increasing the damping coefficient, using an appropriate RAO and increasing the metacentric height. 展开更多
关键词 spar platform INSTABILITY parametric resonance Mathieu equation irregular waves dynamic responses
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The reflection of regular and irregular waves by a partially perforated caisson breakwater on a step bed 被引量:2
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作者 LIU Yong LIYucheng +1 位作者 TENG Bin XIA Zhisheng 《Acta Oceanologica Sinica》 SCIE CAS CSCD 2009年第4期107-117,共11页
This study examines the reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater located on a step bed. The step bed is treated as an idealized rubble mound foundation. Based on the lin... This study examines the reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater located on a step bed. The step bed is treated as an idealized rubble mound foundation. Based on the linear potential theory, an analytical solution is developed to calculate the reflection coefficient of the structure subjected to regular waves. The matched eigenfunction expansion method is used for the solution. The regular wave method is also extended to irregular waves using a linear transfer function. The calculated results obtained for limiting cases are exactly the same as corresponding results given by the previous researchers. The present predictions also agree well with experimental data in the published literatures. Numerical experiments are conducted to examine the variations of the reflection coefficient versus its main effect factors, and some interesting results are presented. 展开更多
关键词 partially perforated caisson STEP irregular waves reflection coefficient
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Ince-Strutt Stability Charts for Ship Parametric Roll Resonance in Irregular Waves 被引量:2
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作者 ZHANG Xiao YANG He-zhen +1 位作者 XIAO Fei XU Pei-ji 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI CSCD 2017年第4期447-457,共11页
Ince-Strutt stability chart of ship parametric roll resonance in irregular waves is conducted and utilized for the exploration of the parametric roll resonance in irregular waves. Ship parametric roll resonance will l... Ince-Strutt stability chart of ship parametric roll resonance in irregular waves is conducted and utilized for the exploration of the parametric roll resonance in irregular waves. Ship parametric roll resonance will lead to large amplitude roll motion and even wreck. Firstly, the equation describing the parametric roll resonance in irregular waves is derived according to Grim’s effective theory and the corresponding Ince-Strutt stability charts are obtained. Secondly, the differences of stability charts for the parametric roll resonance in irregular and regular waves are compared. Thirdly, wave phases and peak periods are taken into consideration to obtain a more realistic sea condition. The influence of random wave phases should be taken into consideration when the analyzed points are located near the instability boundary. Stability charts for different wave peak periods are various. Stability charts are helpful for the parameter determination in design stage to better adapt to sailing condition. Last, ship variables are analyzed according to stability charts by a statistical approach. The increase of the metacentric height will help improve ship stability. 展开更多
关键词 parametric instability parametric rolling MULTI-FREQUENCY irregular waves Ince-Strutt stability chart
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Numerical Study of the Impact of Climate Change on Irregular Wave Run-up Over Reef-Fringed Coasts 被引量:4
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作者 LIU Wei-jie SHAO Ke-qi +1 位作者 NING Yue ZHAO Xi-zeng 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI CSCD 2020年第2期162-171,共10页
Wave hydrodynamics over fringing reefs is largely controlled by the reef surface roughness and hydrodynamic forcing.It is believed that climate change will result in a net increase in the water depth over the reef fla... Wave hydrodynamics over fringing reefs is largely controlled by the reef surface roughness and hydrodynamic forcing.It is believed that climate change will result in a net increase in the water depth over the reef flat,a degrading of the surface roughness of coral reefs and changes in extreme incident wave heights.For an accurate assessment of how climate change affects the safety of reef-fringed coasts,a numerical study of the impact of climate change on irregular wave run-up over reef-fringed coasts was carried out based on a Boussinesq wave model,FUNWAVE-TVD.Validated with experimental data,the present model shows reasonable prediction of irregular wave evolution and run-up height over fringing reefs.Numerical experiments were then implemented based on the anticipated effects of climate change and carried out to investigate the effects of sea level rise,degrading of the reef surface roughness and increase of extreme incident wave height on the irregular wave run-up height over the backreef beach respectively.Variations of run-up components(i.e.,spectral characteristics of run-up and mean water level)were examined specifically and discussed to better understand the influencing mechanism of each climate change-related effect on the run-up. 展开更多
关键词 fringing reefs irregular waves climate change infragravity run-up height
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Interaction of Irregular Waves with Vertical Breakwater and Characteristics of Secondary Wave Generated by Overtopping 被引量:2
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作者 HAN Xinyu JIANG Yunpeng DONG Sheng 《Journal of Ocean University of China》 SCIE CAS CSCD 2021年第6期1353-1370,共18页
This study investigated the interaction between irregular waves and vertical breakwater.The main goal was to determine the wave force on the breakwater for different depths,along with the evolution of the secondary wa... This study investigated the interaction between irregular waves and vertical breakwater.The main goal was to determine the wave force on the breakwater for different depths,along with the evolution of the secondary wave generated by overtopping.The open source code DualSPHysics was used in the simulation.Wavelet transform was employed to remove the acoustic components from the weakly compressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics pressure solution.The results of the experiments and simulations showed that although the wave height at the low water level(case 2 was smaller than that at the high water level(case 1,the horizontal and uplifting force of case 2 was higher than that of case 1.In case 2,a large impact pressure occurred because of the plunging wave and wave breaking effects.As the water level was close to the breakwater top in case 1,the secondary wave generated by overtopping was studied.Results indicated that wave and breakwater interactions transfer wave energy from the leading wave component to higher harmonics.Two main harmonics were identified in the secondary wave.The first harmonic was the incident peak frequency,which was still the dominant component.During the wave propagation behind the breakwater,the frequencies of harmonics remained unchanged,but the amplitude of the first harmonic showed an obvious change.Under the same wave condition,the first and second harmonics did not change with depth. 展开更多
关键词 irregular waves vertical breakwater waveLET wave force secondary wave
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Numerical simulation of the propagation of electromagnetic waves in ionospheric irregularities 被引量:4
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作者 Chun Hua Jiang LeHui Wei +2 位作者 GuoBin Yang Chen Zhou ZhengYu Zhao 《Earth and Planetary Physics》 CSCD 2020年第6期565-570,共6页
The characteristics of high-frequency(HF)electromagnetic(EM)wave propagation can be affected when EM waves propagate in the ionosphere.When ionospheric irregularities appear in the ionosphere,they can have a serious i... The characteristics of high-frequency(HF)electromagnetic(EM)wave propagation can be affected when EM waves propagate in the ionosphere.When ionospheric irregularities appear in the ionosphere,they can have a serious impact on the propagation of HF EM waves.In this study,the propagation of HF EM waves in ionospheric irregularities was investigated by numerical simulation.First,a twodimensional model of plasma bubbles was used to produce ionospheric irregularities in the ionosphere.A ray-tracing method was then utilized to simulate the propagation of HF radio waves in these ionospheric irregularities.Results showed that the propagation of HF radio waves in the ionosphere was more complex in ionospheric irregularities than without ionospheric irregularities.In addition,corresponding ionograms were synthesized by radio rays propagated in the ionosphere with these irregularities.The synthesized ionograms were then compared with the experimental ionograms recorded by an ionosonde.Results showed that spread F could be simulated on the ionograms when ionospheric irregularities occurred in the ionosphere.This result was consistent with the ionosonde observations. 展开更多
关键词 electromagnetic waves ray tracing numerical simulation ionospheric irregularities IONOGRAM
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Reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater with a rock-filled core 被引量:1
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作者 LIU Yong LI Yucheng +1 位作者 TENG Bin MA Baolian 《Acta Oceanologica Sinica》 SCIE CAS CSCD 2007年第3期129-141,共13页
The reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater with a rock-filled core is examined. The present mathematical model is developed by means of the matched eigenfunction metho... The reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater with a rock-filled core is examined. The present mathematical model is developed by means of the matched eigenfunction method. Numerical results of the present model are compared with the experimental data of different researchers. Numerical examples are given to examine the effect of rock fill on the reflection coefficient. The differences between regular and irregular waves are also investigated by means of theoretical and experimental results. It is found that the minimum reflection coefficient of irregular waves is larger than that of corresponding regular waves, but the contrary is the case for the maximum reflection coefficient. 展开更多
关键词 reflection coefficient regular waves irregular waves partially perforated caisson reck fill
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Laboratory Study of the Nonlinear Transformation of Irregular Waves over A Mild Slope 被引量:1
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作者 于博 马玉祥 +1 位作者 马小舟 董国海 《China Ocean Engineering》 SCIE EI CSCD 2014年第4期489-500,共12页
This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope (1:40). Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this ... This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope (1:40). Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth. 展开更多
关键词 irregular waves shallow water nonlinear interactions wave height distribution wavelet bicoherence
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